MiSTER Pi Taki Udon Mega Pack Case

IMPORTANT

Seeing a lot of makes that are printing this in the incorrect orientation. See the images for the recommended layout!

Required Hardware

To assemble this case, you will need the following M3 socket head screws:

• M3x8, 4qty:
  • These are for attaching the MiSTER Pi to the bottom piece of the case.
• M3x12, 10qty:
  • These are used everywhere else. They don't necessarily need to be 12mm, just as long as they reach you'll be fine.

NOTE:

Yes, the end cap covers the FPGA's USB-A port. This is intentional, as this port should not be used when a USB hub board is connected. If you're interested as to why, ask Taki Udon.

Printing

All parts will import into your slicer in their intended print orientation (see images if you're not sure). Supports are not needed if your printer can bridge effectively. You don't even need to worry about the round holes facing downward on the top/button bridge pieces, they have been cut in such a way to promote bridging during print. If your machine doesn't bridge well, using supports is completely fine.

The top piece is printed top side facing the bed, so when you assemble you should have a smooth exposed surface. If your printer bed doesn't leave an attractive finish, you can flip this over instead.

Assembly

1. Assemble your MiSTER Pi Mega Pack according to Taki Udon's instructional video to the letter. This is critical, as this case expects you to have the small standoffs on the bottom of the unit.
2. Attach the MiSTER Pi to the printed bottom piece using 4qty M3x8 socket head screws,
3. Attach a long side panel, securing it to the bottom piece using 2qty M3x12 socket head screws,
4. Put the two short side panels in place. These are secured via 3d printed lips that fit into the long side panel you attached above,
5. Attach the other long side panel, securing it to the bottom piece using 2qty M3x12 socket head screws,
6. With the button bridge piece oriented such that the flat side is facing up, insert the three buttons from the bottom,
7. Place the button bridge and buttons over the MiSTER Pi buttons, and secure the bridge with 2qty M3x12 socket head screws,
8. Attach the top piece with 4qty M3x12 socket head screws.

Wood / Acrylic Tops

There is a DXF file attached for those who would like to create a wood or acrylic top with a laser cutter. You can import this into your cutting software (such as Lightburn). To make a wood top, you will need to do the following:

Recessed Bolt Heads

1. Source some material that's around 3mm thick,
2. Import the DXF into your cutting software,
3. Duplicate the pattern so you have two patterns on screen,
4. On one of the patterns you will want to disable the large bolt head circular paths, leaving only the smaller bolt thread passthrough holes.
5. Cut your pieces.

At this point you should have two pieces, one with large holes in the corners, the other with small holes in the corners. You can then carefully align and glue these together. This will give you a single piece that can be secured to the case while having the bolt heads recessed.

Proud Bolt Heads / Single Piece Option

If you don't want to go through the trouble of glue up and don't mind your bolt heads protruding, just cut a single piece without cutting the larger bolt head recess holes. You could then secure it with M3x12 button head screws, or chamfer the holes and use appropriate M3 hardware to recess them.

How Was This Designed?

While I love Taki Udon's design, half the work of this case was designing a somewhat accurate MiSTER Pi in Fusion to build the case around. In the attached Fusion 360 archive I have included it, hopefully it helps someone else in their design quest around this clone board.