Ultimate Nightstand Charger (with VFD Clock & Light)

No-frills, simple design with only the functions I need and based on readymade components. Works with Magsafe. The clock is perfect for a nightstand because it can be dimmed, and the settings button is still accessible through a hole (needs a small Allen key to reach, which comes with the clock, but it has a battery to store settings so you'll rarely need it). Only a single cable connects to the box (it is using a USB splitter cable internally). There is an indirect night light beaming out the back, which is good enough to find things, but will not immediately wake up your significant other. For convenience I added a .txt file with the usage instructions for the clock (because they were cryptic). For size reference, the shown phone is an iPhone 13.

This should be easy to remix for other types of clock/display (e.g. OLED or matrix LED) if they physically fit. If you do so, please post links or pictures to the part you used. Only the cutout and standoffs in the front panel, as well as the two small holding brackets would need to be changed. The OpenScad files has some control parameters for customization (see below).

I provide an alternate stl file that has hidden compartments accessible from the back, to store small things you might need close to the bed, as well as little drawers to put in there (not tested and not in my pictures). Originally I thought I might need to put some weights there, so my personal version just has holes, in case you're wondering. Weights aren't necessary, the phone magnets cannot lift up the case.

The design uses relatively cheap off-the-shelf parts and needs minimal soldering. You can forgo the button and light (see assembly), then it requires no soldering. No modification of the components is necessary and they are held in place by screws or a clip (no glue except possibly for the LED). The case was designed with a specific type of COB LED in mind (see BOM), but since it's not visible directly you can really use anything that fits in the case and just gaffer-tape it. In fact my LED did not arrive yet, but I wanted to get into the contest so I used a length of adhesive LED strip ;-)

BOM:

Total parts cost around 35 USD (parts from Aliexpress, try the listed search terms). I'm using USB-C throughout, just change the relevant parts for USB-A if preferred:

1x USB-C VFD WiFi clock* (search “VFD Glow Fluorescent Clock”, check my images so you buy the correct model, I paid around 15 USD)
1x small roll of window tint to cover the front (5% transmission, search “Black Car Window Film”)
1x USB-C cheap Magsafe charger** (search “Magnetic Wireless Charger 30W”)
1x USB-C short splitter cable (search “USB C Male to 3 USB C Female Splitter Cord”)
1x USB-C cable (long) to connect to a wall wart
1x USB-C to USB-C cable (very short) to connect the clock internally (clock comes with USB-A)
1x USB-C panel-mount socket, 22-24 mm bore (search “Chassis Connector Type C Female to Female USB-C”)
4x M3x16 screws (for securing the front panel to the case)
2x M3x8 or M3x10 button head screws & M3 heat-press inserts (for bottom cover, inserts are optional)

only when adding a light:
1x USB-C to +5V/GND short adapter cable (search “Type C  Plug Wire Connector”)
1x connector for LED bar (e.g. Molex 2pin, optional)
1x LED bar*** (search “3.7V DC 60x8mm LED COB Strip”, I suggest 1W warm white)
1x self-locking button, 16 mm bore**** (search “Self-lockin 16MM Latching/Momentary Push Button”)
2x resistors to protect the 3V LEDs from overcurrent (~330 Ohm for button LED & whatever works for your main light) or do it properly with:
1x step-down converter (search “MP1584EN DC-DC Step Down Supply Module”)
- some red/black wire, soldering/wire stripping tools, heatshrink

other&tools:
- any smooth and somewhat stiff transparency film (e.g. for overhead projectors or from some packaging)
- double-sided tape
- hobby knife or scalpel
- very small wrench or pliers to install the clock standoffs (M3)

possibly helpful:
- Gaffer tape and/or Kapton tape
- a soft scraper (or some rubber thingy usable for scraping)
- all-purpose glue or hot-glue gun
- cutting mat

* Some of the required mounting screws come included with the clock, do not lose them (see below).
** My charger is 65x7.5 mm. Smaller diameters will work (can be customized in OpenScad). Try to get a charger with 7.5 mm thickness or less, only then assembly works as designed (you can fit in a thicker one only with some tinkering).
*** I designed around the listed PCB-mounted COB LED, but it doesn't matter which LED you use for the inbuilt lamp as long as it fits. E.g. a short bit of adhesive LED strip would work fine if you have any, and there are several places where you can put in in the case. Don't forget to protect it with a resistor if it's rated for less than 5V. I include several types of diffusors and you can customize them a bit in OpenScad.
**** I went for this specific button because it fits the overall esthetic, and you can get it in different colors. Its indicator LED is broken out separately, so there are several options for wiring: LED not used at all, LED on when button is pressed (this is what I did), LED on when button is not pressed (to find it better in the dark), or LED always on. Use a resistor to protect it from USB voltage (button LED = 3V), I'm using 330 Ohm and it's a bit on the too bright side. If you forgo the main light, the button LED by itself is just bright enough by itself to find the bedroom door. 
You can easily change the bore diameters for the button and back USB socket in the OpenScad design file if you prefer using other parts. If you don't want to install a button, just cover the hole with window tint as described below or print the no-button part.

Printing:

All parts are pre-oriented for printing. Don't worry, you won't need most of the parts (a lot are optional or come in variants). They are easy prints, but there are some points to consider:

The main shell prints fine with default settings, but requires organic supports. What you see in the images is matte PLA (0.15 mm layers). Add support blockers in the hidden compartments if you print that version. They are not necessary and will probably break off anyway. Make sure you paint on your seam, so it is hidden on the back side. If you don't have heat-press inserts, you can use OpenScad to render a version where the screws tap into the case itself.  

The part holding the charger needs a bit more attention because the top is only one layer thick (to position the charger as close as possible to the phone). I printed this from PETG (0.15 mm layers). Textured and satin sheets both work, but: Make sure the sheet is 100% clean, don't use any adhesive. If you don't get a nice closed surface, print a bit closer to the bed or increase your extrusion width a bit (it worked fine for me 1st try on Prusa XL with defaults). There's a single color version in the files, but you can probably print it dual color with a single color machine and some trickery (i.e. finish deco first and leave it on, change filament, don't probe bed height and print the rest over it). When finished, carefully pry up the fringe a tiny bit and push some paper under it. Then use the paper to cut it free without applying any upward force to the part. If you just pull, you'll stretch the thin first layer and it won't look good.

The clip used to hold the charger in place needs to be flexed significantly during assembly. Don't print from PLA or any brittle material, it will probably break. PETG works fine.

The front panel and two holding brackets holding the clock print normally, but consider printing them from PETG with a bit more infill for stiffness. It will work with PLA but a little flex is nice to have during assembly, the screws tap easier and you won't risk breaking the parts. Print the front panel on a smooth sheet if you can, the double-sided tape will stick better than on a textured part.

The bottom cover comes in two versions. The “deluxe” version has the usage instructions printed on and can hold the Allen key included with the clock. You can add a manual color change after 3 layers to highlight the text like in my picture. Both variants print better with supports. 

The diffusors are optional, it depends on your LEDs if you need them and which type you like best. The same goes for the COB mounting bracket, which will only work if you order the exact same LED I used, but makes mounting it much easier.

Drawers are also optional, the print will require organic supports. I haven't tested this because I did not want to reprint my case.

Customization:

Near the top of the file, just uncomment the part you would like to render. The following parameters can be changed in OpenScad (the preset values in the file are what I used, diameters/lengths are in mm):

charger_diameter: diameter of your charger (around 65 mm or smaller, add tolerance)
compartment: add compartments in the back? “none”, “left”, “right”, “both”
feet_style: “cylinder”, “cone”, “rounded”, “none”
clock_button_access: true/false - create access hole for clock settings button?
light_window: true/false - add the rectangular window for LED in the back?
heated_inserts: true/false - use heated inserts or screw directly into the case?
1st_USB: true/false - create hole for 1st panel-mount socket?
1st_USB_diameter: 1st USB socket bore diameter
1st_USB_position: 1st USB socket position, 0 mm = left corner relative to front
2nd_USB: true/false - create hole for 2nd panel-mount socket?
2nd_USB_diameter: 2nd USB socket bore diameter
2nd_USB_position: 2nd USB socket position, 105 mm = right corner relative to front
3rd_USB: true/false - create hole for 3rd panel-mount socket?
3rd_USB_diameter: 3rd USB socket bore diameter
3rd_USB_position: 3rd USB socket position, 55 mm = center
right_button: true/false - create hole for button right of clock?
right_button_diameter: right button bore diameter
left_button: true/false - create hole for button left of clock?
left_button_diameter: left button bore diameter
text_on_lid: true/false - usage instructions on lid?
tool_on_lid: true/false - Allen key holder on lid?
diffusor_type: options - “1hole”, “2hole”, “3hole”, “4hole”, “5hole”, “slit”, “default”
diffusor_solid_layer: true/false -  add a solid diffusion layer on hole/slit-type diffusors (manual color change)?
diffusor_hole_diameter: diameter/slit width for hole/slit-type diffusors

Assembly:

Note 1: I checked if the clock shows through a single 3D-printed layer, with the idea to get a smooth panel surface. This doesn't work at all with black PETG or PLA filament (even 0.1 mm), so I ultimately went with transparency film and window tint. Alternatively you can just leave it open if you don't mind the ugliness, the clock can be dimmed.

Note 2: If you're wondering why my VFD is bright green instead of blueish, I found by chance that this happens when you view it through Kapton tape (a.k.a PEI tape). I love the color, so I just stuck some tape on the backside of the plastic film I use to cover the front panel. Additional layers make the green more intense & darker.

Note 3: My own case looks a tiny bit different around the charger position. I added some cutouts to the final model to make room for the connecting cable, which should make assembly much easier (you won't have to pinch the cable like in my pictures). Also I'm using a different style of feet on the case. You can configure these in OpenScad, but it's really not worth it. Cylinder feet just print much better and you won't see them anyway.

Preparing the front panel:
Cut a sufficient area from your clear transparency sheet, then peel the window tint film and put it on. It helps to wet the transparency sheet and use a soft scraper to push out all the bubbles. Start on one end and slowly work towards the other. It doesn't have to be perfect, as long as the part covering the opening is good. Make sure it's smooth and not scratched before you proceed. If you want to replicate my clock color, put Kapton tape on the backside where the clock face will show through. Peel one side of the double-sided tape and put it on the printed front panel part. Turn the part over, cut around the inside and outside edges to remove excess tape. Then peel the other side and press it on the transparency sheet (tinted side facing out). Cut around the outside edges to remove excess, cut the inside edges only where the button will sit (unless you don't want to install one now, you can add it later). Remove screws, acrylic covers and standoffs from the clock, hold it against the finished panel and test the clock now. Go through the dimming settings in a dark room, make sure it isn't too bright in the dark and still readable in daylight. There are 10 brightness steps. Consider adding another layer of window tint directly to the clock display now (it results in a more usable brightness range, the clock seriously is very bright). When you're done, use the four male standoffs to screw the clock to the front panel (mind orientation of the settings button). Connect the short USB-C to USB-C cable to the clock.

Preparing the LED wiring (optional, only if you want to use a light and button):
Solder the button, LED and USB power cables together (5V through the button pins, use negative terminal pin of button LED to connect all GND wires). Wire the button LED 5V and resistor however you want to configure it. It helps a lot if you use heatshrink to make a nice bundle, make sure it fits through the panel hole. If you have a main LED that fits through the hole, wire it up now (including a resistor or step-down converter if the LED needs less than 5V). Otherwise, either use a connector between the LED and button, or put in longer wires and solder it when everything is put together. I used connectors and added a second pair of wires in case I want to add something else later. If you're using the same COB LED as me, I recommend gluing it to the printed bracket for easier mounting (see picture for reference). When finished, push the wiring through the front panel hole and screw down the button. Connect the whole thing to a wall wart and test the button & LEDs (if you used resistors, changed them now if too bright).

Preparing the case:
Remove all supports and clean it up. If you want to use the heatset inserts on the bottom, install them now and test-fit the bottom cover. Install the panel-mount USB socket.

Preparing the charger:
First check your tolerances, the long clip with the handle must fit through the holes in the charger inset. Place the printed part face down on a flat surface. Press in the charger, business side facing down and cable facing towards one of the gaps, and make sure that it really sits flat on the surface. It doesn't matter if it can move a bit horizontally, but you can strategically apply some drops of glue or press in some cardboard or rubber bands if you want. Put the main case over the charger inset (cable goes inside the case). Place the whole thing on a small book or similar, so you can press against the round printed part and the case at the same time. Now put in the long clip piece, grip facing towards you. This will lock the charger inset and charger against the case. The clip will require some bending/flexing and it is a very tight fit. If necessary, file off the ends of the clip a bit until it slips in, or reprint a slightly scaled-down version (scale only Z). Be careful not to damage the single-layer surface of the print, you really need to keep the whole assembly pressed against the surface the whole time. Once it's in and locked down, check that the charger cannot move vertically. If it does, wedge some cardboard between the clip and the charger until it is properly seated. If your charger is thicker than 7.5 mm, you'll have to be a bit creative: Cut the ends off the printed clip and use them to clamp the printed charger inset against the case from the outside in. Then press in your charger and lock it in place with hot glue. Also apply hot glue to the charger inset to make sure the cut clip ends can't move. Now connect the charger, put your phone on it and see if it works through the printed surface.

Final Assembly:
Start with the LED light. Place it over the rectangular hole in the back and fix it in place with tape, hot glue or all-purpose glue (and add a diffusor if you want to use one). Personally I hotglued my LED strip to a diffusor, slotted the diffusor into the hole and affixed it with gaffer tape. The front panel can dangle for now if you're not using connectors. Connect the 3-way splitter cable to USB socket, connect the button USB cable, clock cable and the charger cable to the splitter and test the button/light/charger/clock again (now using power from the back USB socket). If everything works, attach the front panel to the main case using the four M3x16 screws and two small brackets (see cutaway picture for orientation of the brackets). The screws go into the standoffs on the clock PCB, you can opt to put the clock's acrylic back panel inbetween. This is a bit fiddly, it helps to have narrow pliers to hold the lower screws in place. Make sure the front panel has even gaps on all sides (not hard to do). Don't overtighten, just tighten enough that the front sits flush on all sides.