Zorbido hotend adapter

I preordered and received the Rapido hotend from Fabreeko.com and designed a Prusa MK3s+ x-end adapter for it. It uses an Orbiter 1.5 extruder. I call it the Zorbido because I built mine off the Zaribo Orbiter adapter. Zaribo + Orbiter + Rapido = Zorbido.

Initial tests have been unbelievable.

I normally run anywhere from .8mm to 1.6mm of retraction on my dozen stock Prusas. With the Rapido using a .4mm nozzle, I have been able to drop my retraction down to .2mm! And this is with PETG! I've never been happier with a hotend.

Pros:

• Rigid mount for 1-handed nozzle changes.
• Heatbreak reinforced by screws.
• Heatblock doesn't obstruct nozzle.
• Thermistor and heater wires are far away from the nozzle so no more dirty or frayed wires. They are also reinforced with a metal spring so they can't be bent easily at the connection.
• Comes with connectors for both wires
• Comes with 2 .4mm nozzles, 1 reinforced.
• Heats up insanely fast.
• Silicone sock covers a huge surface area and won't easily come off or be destroyed.
• Without the groove-mount adapter, it's actually 10mm+ shorter than an E3D v6. I actually had to increase the distance between it and my extruder to not need to change too much geometry.
• Dropped my retraction my a TON.
• It's blue or black.

Cons:

• Price? It's like, 50% more expensive than a v6, but since it comes with a thermistor and heater, it's not more expensive than a Dragon.
• Wires being higher up means it won't fit perfectly on some mounts designed for the v6. Currently my mount needs more optimized wire management.

Note: the retraction test in the photo shows retractions increasing by .1mm at each ridge. Starting at 0mm retraction. Notice anything? There's no stringing regardless of retraction settings! Insane!

Assembly: 

Print all the parts of the Zorbiter, but swap out the extruder body and extruder cover for my 2 parts. (I mis-named the extruder cover and called it the motor cover. Just ignore this). 

Follow the assembly instructions for the Zorbiter almost entirely. You need to use M3 heatset inserts wherever a nut would go in my parts aside from the PINDA sensor. 

You'd also need to cut down your PTFE tube, but I don't have that size on-hand. It's easy enough to figure out, imo. 

IMPORTANT NOTE: I have not done proper cable management and the thermistor and heater wires don't have a great place. They might affect x-calibration since they pass alongside the fan and PINDA wires. I'll work on that later.