Spitfire Rubber Band toy plane

Does it fly? YES, it flies. It doesn't have the same flight range as a balsawood model, but if you use lightweight filaments and light tissue airfoil, you can keep it fly-able. 

• Print the parts out of LW-PLA to make it lightweight. 
• Designed to work and be assembled like the old balsa wood rubber band model planes
• The wingspan of the aircraft is ~420mm. Scale up or down if you need other dimensions. 
• You can build it with your kids as you see me with my son in the video below. 
• Watch the assembly video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KGvR3ibxaFY
• Some of the parts as the cockpit and the nose of the airplane are being optimized for spiral vase printing.
• Even if you print it out of heavy materials such as PETG, it still makes for a good ground toy, and when you release the rubber band propeller, it travels enough on the ground to make it fun for the kids. 
• You can use glue to join the parts (My son uses a soldering station to weld the plastic in the video)
• Check my other similar design of a Hawker Hurricane I've just uploaded. 

Printing INSTRUCTIONS:

Propeller

- the only part that is recommended to be printed out of heavier (stronger materials) such as PLA plus. It can add more to the needed nose weight. 
- 0.1mm layer height
- 6 top and bottom layers
- support material
- 2 rafters
- no skirt
- print as it is and do not flip over. It should be with the nose down and with the hole up
- sand, prime, sand and paint for smoother surfaces. See the pictures and the video for example.

Nose
- spiral vase
- 0.1mm layer height
- 6 to 10 bottom layers
- print as it is and do not flip (it should be small flat base down).

Cockpit (the spiral vase model)
- 0.1mm layer height
- the spiral vase model has two mirrored cockpits
- trim one of them after printing
- use a marker to color the window trims after printing and cutting the excess material

Cockpit (the solid model)
- 0.1mm layer height
- 5 top and bottom layers

Wheels
- 0.2mm layer height
- 4 top and bottom layers
- no rafters or support material

All the other parts
- up to 0.3mm layer height
- no special settings and leave the default infill settings. 

If you want to fly this, it needs to be balanced. If you suspend the ready-to-fly plane with your finger tips by the tip of the wings, it should remain relatively parallel to the ground. If the model is tail heavy, you need to either remove weight from the back of the plane, or add more weight to the nose. 

Use the provided A3 layout to get the right position of the fuselage and wing pieces. When you assemble the wings to the central section, elevate the outer edges of the wings with 1.8cm as in the video. Notice that I used a couple of green li-ion batteries as stands. You can use any object that has similar heights. Also, check the overview picture (with labels and arrows) to get an idea of where each part should be placed. Otherwise, the name of the parts could get confusing at some point.

Use a thick paper clip to make the hook and the pin for the rubber band. You can cut the paper clip wire in half. Use one of these half as an axel for the propeller. At one end, the axel will connect with the propeller and it will be inserted into it's hole and at the other end you will have to shape it and make it into a hook to attach the band. Insert the hook from the inside of the nose cone as you see me doing in the video and once is inserted through the nose hole, secure the propeller into position using a drop of super glue (see the black picture).