Prusa Buddy 3D Camera Redux - Tiny enclosure for the camera

This model repurposes the parts from the rather large Prusa Buddy 3D Camera, into a much smaller package more suitable for a 3D printer.

The printed enclosure consists of 3 parts that snaps together, and no screws are needed. As this are tiny electronic parts, patience is needed during disassembly and reassembly. Don't stress, especially the removal of the speaker during disassembly , and the final step where the back case is snapped onto the front are important steps.

The leftover parts are the two motors as they serve no purpose in prusa connect at the moment. If Prusa adds support at some point, I plan to do a motorized mount for the camera as a simple upgrade with a new rear panel.

31/03/25: Important: Prusa has updated the Buddy Cam with a revision 2. Main PCB is identical but now has two larger cooling profiles, and the USB-C PCB board is enlarged. It won't fit my original design.

I have made a modified back piece that is now 15mm deeper and speaker placement is moved to clear the USB-C pcb.

So on the files page you can download two different back pieces: Rev 1 and Rev 2.

Thanks to https://www.printables.com/@bergbauverei_2627934 for the info.
 

Here is the visual difference:

Print:
I printed on a MK4S with the 0.4mm nozzle in  PETG Black Prusament filament using the 0.15mm Structural preset with 5 perimeters and 40% infill. There are a lot of tiny details so the 0.15 or below layer height is best. 

Be careful not to use a brittle filament as the snap mechanism can break if the filament is not springy or if the layer adhesion is not great. Support is only really needed for the gap in the nato rail on the front plate. Either enable support everywhere, or paint the nato rail with support on the front piece.

1. Disassembling the camera.
- There are 3 screws on the bottom under the rubber feet, and two in the rear of the top dome.
- after you remove the back dome, you can disconnect all the connectors on the PCB. Just note where the mic and speakers are connected as they seem to use an identical connector.
- There is a single black screw holding the main camera board - do not unscrew  the two silver screws, as they are fixing the lens to the PCB and does not need to be removed to disassemble.
- Take care when removing the wifi antenna. The smb connector can stay attached, you just need to remove the antenna sticker carefully.
- Removing the speaker and mic can be difficult - The glue used seem to differ - the white soft glue is easy to remove - if you find they used the red glue its a bit more difficult. Please take care with the speaker wires, as they are very thin and can easily detach from the solder joint. Do not pull the speaker by the wires when removing it, use a small flathead screwdriver to remove the glue all around the circumference and pry it out.

2. Assembling the new camera.
- There are three pieces for the new housing: a front, a rear and a reset/pair button.
- The front has two versions: One with a NATO rail on the bottom and one without. I included a NATO receiver that can b remixed into your preferred mounting arm. Alternatively remix the model without the arm and do an alternative mounting solution. The nato rail is really sturdy and makes the camera very easy to remove.
- Start with the front piece of the cabinet. Insert the LED ring from behind. The light sensor on the front should face the bottom (pointing towards the cutout) This aligns the connector to the  Left.
- stick the Wifi antenna sticker on the side next to the connector with the coax cable router around the PCB.
- start orienting the PCB so the SD slot and curved side is pointing at the bottom of the housing with the matching SD cutout.
- Route the battery cable around the bottom right corner.
- make sure the black and green cables from the lens module is not interfering with the lens.<
- Slowly insert the board, while guiding the lens into the opening in the LED ring.
- The PCB should end up resting really tight locked in by the 4 index pins standoffs.
- Take the back piece and insert the USB-C pcb. It needs to be guided in at an angle then snap onto the standoff, while locked in by the circular speaker cutout. If it seems impossible, take a screwdriver and massage the edges of the USB-C cutout to make it a tiny bit larger. It's just a slight opening - the USB should be a really tight fit.
- Place the mic and battery like in the picture. For safety you can put tape to isolate the metal mic can. The battery should stay on the small foam pad from the original, and this side should be on the PCB.
- Place the speaker and make sure it's oriented correctly. Watch out for the cables!
- Place the reset/pair button in the cutout note that there is a flat side and a side with a bevel - the beveled side is the bottom  that goes against the PCB - test that you can press it and it clicks.
- Slowly close the enclosure, and make sure all cables stay inside. Also make sure that the reset/pair bassoon stays in place.
- Aster it snaps together, please test the reset/pair button again, and check the usb-c and front LED ring and camera are placed correctly.