RTIC 65qt Cooler Wheel Attachment

This model uses the recess on either end of the cooler to attach wheels. This model is split into two pieces to allow printing on a MK4. The wheel attachment is held on with a ratchet strap that is threaded though the slots on either end of the cooler (the ones designed to accept a ratchet strap for strapping down the cooler without limiting access to the contents of the cooler).

Hardware Needed Solid Bar Option:

• 5/8" OD Solid Bar (3' should be enough, but there will be extra for most wheels)
• 2 Wheels - Recommended 10" Wheels (I used these 10" wheels)
• 4 Washers with 5/8" ID
• 2 Cotter Pins or Hair Pins
• Ratchet Strap (I used this one, but any that will thread though the slot should work as long as it is 10' long)
  • NOTE: As mentioned by @jerrodlv_3167274 in the comments, with the ratchet strap I use, you can unbolt the short end attached to the ratchet mechanism and feed it through the slot on the cooler and then reassemble it.  If your ratchet strap cannot do that, you may have an issues with the short strap on the ratchet being too long and causing issues. with where the ratchet mechanism ends up (likely on the bottom of the cooler). Consider this when purchasing parts and have a plan for this issue if you expect it. Modification may be in order for your selected ratchet strap.

Hardware Needed All Thread Option:

• 5/8" OD All-Thread (3' should be enough, but there will be extra for most wheels)
• 2 Wheels - Recommended 10" Wheels (I used these 10" wheels)
• (Optional) 4 Washers with 5/8" ID
• 2-4 Locking Type Nuts for all-thread (nylon lock nuts - most common, cone-lock nuts (prevailing-torque locking nut), jam nuts - yes not technically a locking type nut but they work here when used correctly, etc.)

Print Suggestions:

• The ultimate goal is to print a stronger model
  • Use more perimeters
  • Use an Infill like gyroid
  • Consider Stronger Filaments
  • Look at the “Wheel Attachment V2.3mf” file for my exact print settings (Currently using PLA, but will likely switch to something else on the next print)
• “Axle Mount V2.3mf” needs to be printed in the vertical orientation, so that the axle bore do not require supports, and the layers extend beyond the mounting tabs
  • 2 of these are required for the finished model
• “Wheel Attachment Base V2.3mf” has two bodies in one file that DO NOT need to be printed together
• “Key Pieces.3mf” has two bodes in one file that IS RECOMMENDED to be printed as a multi-body part, such that the most space is saved, and the spacing is not changed when the part is moved.

Assembly:

1. Print Model
2. Glue and assemble “Wheel Attachment Base V2.3mf” and “Key Pieces.3mf” (see pictures for assembled view).
3. Assemble the current glued model and “Axle Mount V2.3mf” GLUE IS NOT REQUIRD
4. Slide solid bar or all-thread though the axle mount.
5. Thread long end though both slots on cooler and run strap underneath cooler (see pictures). I recommend having the ratcheting mechanism be on the wheel end to keep it out of the way of moving the cooler, but experimentation will determine the best placement of the strap
6. Place model under straps on the desired end in the recess on the cooler. It is easiest to remove the drain plug while assembling. When first assembled, it will cover the drain hole, but it will shift up later.
7. Slide washers and wheels on either end. It is recommended to have a washer on either side of each wheel. If using all-thread, you may desire to thread a nut on before attaching wheels. If so, do that here.
8. Position axle such that all of the desired excess is on one end, accounting for enough room for either a hole to be drilled though the axle for your pins, or threading on a nut completely to prevent the wheel from sliding off (see pictures for consideration with solid-bar)
9. Mark excess with a marker to be cut (remember to consider all of the required pins or hardware)
10. Remove model and cut off excess and clean up sharp edges.
11. If using solid bar - Reassemble and mark holes for pins. Remove model and drill holes. Reassemble and insert pins into holes
12. If using All-thread - Reassemble and add nuts to either end. If wheels do not spin freely, slightly loosen nuts and check again.
13. To get the model to fit without the drain hole, it is easiest to sit on the end of the cooler to use your weight to slide it into place. After this, the drain port plug can be threaded into place. I would not recommend bouncing or jumping, as the strength may not be able to hold up to this abuse.

Now, whenever you want to add or remove the wheels, just unattached or reattach the model with the ratchet strap. It is recommended that the ratchet strap go completely on top of the model and axle to allow for easy assembly and disassembly.

Failures and Suggestions:

If your assembled model breaks or fails for any reason, message me so that I can fix the shortcoming or redesign the model to solve the issue. Abuse voids warranties, but I still want to know about the failure. Failure is the only way to get better.

Message me if you have another cooler style and would like a model made for it. This may work for other RTIC coolers, but I cannot confirm, so check measurements before you print. 

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