Tandon TM100 Gotek mount

This is a mounting solution for a Gotek floppy drive emulator (SFRC922D in particular) that matches the dimensions and appearance of a Tandon TM-100 5.25" floppy drive.

The door is functional and hides the port, buttons, and display of the Gotek device.

Feel free to improve on this. The TinkerCAD design is public here.

This needs to be printed in 4 parts.

Mounting holes on the faceplate match the Gotek SFRC922D, but holes can be drilled to match different models. Side mounting holes match the original Tandon drive, and the same screws used to mount a Tandon drive will self-tap the plastic.

The faceplate LED hole matches the 3mm of the original Tandon, you can drill it a bit larger to fit more common LED sizes. The intent is to cut the LED off the Gotek and extend it to the faceplate LED hole and replace it with a red LED.

The faceplate and the mounting plate should be printed upside-down to reduce the support required. Suit yourself however, if you prefer to do it differently.

The faceplate requires full supports and you need to be careful in removing the supports to avoid breaking. The door fits small channels in the faceplate, be sure to remove supports inside that channel also. You may choose to increase the infill on the faceplate to strengthen it and avoid breaking at the weak points at the ends of the disk slot.

The mounting plate and LCD mount do not require supports if printed upside down or on its face respectively

Faceplate and mount plate can be attached with screws using the holes provided, or glued. If gluing, use the holes to ensure correct alignment before the adhesive sets. Ensure you use the holes for correct alignment. The mount plate is 1mm offset from the faceplate and using the holes will get the alignment correct. It will not correctly fit in the drive bay if this alignment is incorrect.

The door can be printed on its back or standing with a raft. Supports should be used in both cases. If it is printed on its back, the texture will differ from the faceplate.

You can finish the faceplate and the door so that it closely matches the original. I personally used a thick coat of flat-black spraypaint, then another thin coat when that was dry. This filled most of the ridges and gave the flat color to match the original. If you so choose, you can take the time to smooth the parts first and texture them however you see fit.

When all components are printed, the door can be inserted from the back of the faceplate. The LCD mount can then be glued into place so that the LCD is supported and the door is blocked from falling inside the machine.

When mounting the LED, I drilled the LED hole to 5mm because I had a 5mm red LED on-hand. I cut the LED off the Gotek board with about 1cm of its leads remaining. Then I used a pair of female-female breadboard/prototype wires to extend that to the new LED that was fitted in the faceplate.