Prusa Enclosure Corner Puck Light Ball Mount Adapter

The original prusa enclosure doesn't let a lot of light in, especially the top panel which is a solid piece of black painted metal. I wanted to add lighting on the inside with a switch. I've seen a lot of options with strip LEDs but not so many with ball mount type spotlight style that can be easily moved around, so I wanted to try making one.

What's Needed:

Found a corner ball mount with a 16mm diameter ball already made on printables by @KidFabi_1554504

found here:  https://www.printables.com/model/748484-ball-mount-16mm-enclosure

These corner mounts require additional hardware, each needs 2x M3 hex nuts and 2x M3 screws to mount to the inside edge corners of the Prusa enclosure. The nice thing about these ball mounts is you can mount them just about anywhere along the corner rails of the enclosure. Right side, left side, top edge, the rear, the available positions are really only limited to whether the holes are already being used for something or not and if there's anything that might interfere with the pot light. For instance, along the right side I had to mount the light a bit lower so not to get in the way of the filament spool.

Then I found a suitable set of modular lights with long enough cords and a switch found on Amazon here:

https://www.amazon.ca/Bazz-Under-Cabinet-Integrated-Linkable-Installation/dp/B06W9PCVV8?th=1

This kit comes with 3 LED pot lights each with facade plates, 6+ mounting screws, a switch and power adapter with plug support for 3 lights. The power adapter is north america, not sure if they're available for other plug standards without an adapter.

Based on the pot light screw options, my design is an adapter that will allow the LED pot lights to be mounted to the corner ball mounts.

I printed mine with ASA because I have no idea how hot the pot lights get plus the temp inside the enclosure, but I imagine PETG should work too. Suggest printing face down with the ball socket facing up, enable supports to fill in the circular cavity.

Assembly Instructions:

Twist the front cover facade off the pot light to expose the screw holes.

Use the screws included with the pot lights to screw the pot lights to the 3D printed adapter to create a pot light assembly. Advance the screws like tapping threads, aka 2 turns in, 1 turn back, repeat to cut threads, just in case otherwise the screw boss might crack if simply sending it in one go.

Optional: twist the facade back onto the pot light, note the gap on the one side for the wires to exit the side.

Use M3 screws and nuts to mount the corner ball mount to the inside of the enclosure in your chosen location.

Push the back of the pot light assembly bracket onto the ball mount.

Use zip ties to route the cable along the corners to your desired exit. Plug into the switch and power supply.

Turn light on and adjust angle on pot light bracket to desired direction.

Repeat for additional 1-2 pot light assemblies you want to daisy chain back to the switch.

Uncertainties:

I've only been using 2 of the 3 lights as I've been too lazy to mount the 3rd to the back of the enclosure and route the cabling. The 2 lights have been more than enough for what I need. I've been using these lights for a few months now and so far it works perfectly. I typically only have the lights on when I'm setting a print up and need to check the progress of a print, but otherwise I turn the lights off.

What I don't know is what happens if you leave the lights on for days non-stop, and in a heated enclosure non-stop printing for long term. There's no vent holes in the back of my adapters so if the pot lights get really hot, there's not really anywhere for that heat to dissipate other than slowly into the plastic of the adapter. No idea if extended use in heat might overheat and burn out the lights.