Roland DXY-1150A roller plate

Freecad file contains 2 models, original → as close as possible to original as I could measure some of smaller hole sizes might be wrong as they were hard to measure, also the draft angles were ignored, and second model → optimized for FDM 3d printing. 

Designed based on measurements from 1150A. There are a couple of models which use similar mechanism but haven't been tested with the print:

• 1350A - should be identical to 1150A just with electrostatic instead of magnetic paper holder
• 1150, 1350 - unknown what the difference between these and A versions
• 1100,1200,1300 - a bit older than 1150A. Uses screws in 2places that 1150A has plastic pins. Shouldn't affect compatibility assuming rest of dimensions match. 
   

Differences from original part

• Rollers are secured using M3 screw which screws into threaded metal insert
• Belt clamps are moved since they cant reuse holes from roller mounts anymore
• Cable hook redesigned - remove hole unnecessary for 3d printing, make sides wider
• PCB mounting boss made shorter

Avoid mistakes

The PCB with limit switch needs to be positioned in specific way so that adjustment screw hits metal strip and metal strip presses the limit switch on PCB.  The model I printed reproduced the PCB mount height as measured but that resulted in limit switch and metal strip being too high missing the adjustment screw.  Not sure where the error came from. Was there a mistake in some other measurements, was it surface roughness from supports, was it slight bend as the rail presses against rollers? As quick workaround I managed to file off enough so that it would barely hit the adjustment screw. In the model uploaded I reduced height of PCB mount. If it happens to be too low in your build you can raise it by adding some washers, which should be easier compared to mistake I did.
 

After reviewing the pictures I made turns out I assembled it in wrong order. Metal strip goes under the PCB not the other way around. That at least partially explains why it was too high. 
 

Additional hardware needed

• M3 threaded insert x4
• M3x12 screw x4 preferably button head, M3x10 also works even better if you can get flanged screw 
• M3 washers x4,  maybe  M4.   M3 is barely big enough to work. 

Printing tips

Print with the roller side up. Add support blockers inside holes. 

You might need to adjust sizes for belt clamp holes and pins on which the rollers mount.  Current model is fine tuned for behavior of my printer.  Rest of dimensions should have wide enough tolerance, 

Disassembly

Should be mostly obvious. 

Release tension in belts before  trying to unscrew  X axis motor.

When unplugging ribbon cable from the PCB with limit switch there is a latch which needs to be pulled out to release the ribbon cable.

I removed the side panel with buttons and unscrewed the X axis shaft coupler, but that probably wasn't necessary. 

Order of steps for assembling

Having 2 of the 4 wheels broken makes the disassembly process easier than it is to afterwards reassemble with replacement. 

In this description by “Y axis” I am referring to the shortest axis, the one which is above plotting area.

Test the height of limit switch as soon as possible. Once everything else is assembled it will be hard to make any adjustments.

1. Remove the white passive end of Y axis, this will allow you to completely remove Y axis from plotter. Unscrew the aluminum rail from rest of the plotter body.
2. Attach rollers to the roller plate
3. Attach the roller plate to the Y axis, this is hard to do without having Y axis removed from plotter. (2 screws, yellow with coarse thread)
4. Slide the roller plate onto X axis aluminum profile
5. Attach the X axis aluminum profile to the plotter frame, but don't screw it yet. Hold the other end of Y  axis
6. Attach the white plastic part to the end of Y axis, now the Y axis is supported on both ends
7. Screw the X axis aluminum profile into plotter, (5 screws, small black)
8. Insert end of X axle, into bearing. Don't forget to hook on the belt first and make sure it isn't twisted.
9. Untwist the other X belt, and hook it onto X axis stepper
10. Insert motor shaft into shaft coupler, pay attention to the direction of flat and grubscrews. 
11. Screw in the motor (2 screws, yellow with fine thread)
12. Secure the motor shaft grub screws
13. Guide the 2 cables from Y axis through the belt. 
14. Get the Y axis perpendicular frame. How ?
15. Screw in the belt clamps (2 screws)
16. Plug in the 2 connectors and secure the PCB (1 screw), make sure the limit switch and metal strip is at right height. Metal strip goes before the PCB.
17. Adjust belt tension
18. Make sure all the wires are in place. 
19. Make sure the ferrite ring on front panel cable is secured to frame.
20. Unless already there apply some thick tape over the edge of power supply mount bracket. It has a sharp metal edge with 2 cables going over it. 
21. Attach plastic panels

Potential future improvements

• Add hex nut for belt clamp mounting holes. Self tapping a machine screw in plastic needs correct hole dimension. In general with deeper holes it's less of a problem. Here i needed a few test prints. There isn't quite enough space for threaded insert.