Creality K2 Plus Chamber Heater Recirc Mod
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A bolt-on mod for the Creality K2 plus that recirculates the hot air in the enclosure rather than drawing cold air.
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- 5 / 5
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- 5
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- 8986
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- 5
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Informacje o modelu
- Źródło
- Printables
- Kategoria
- Creality Parts & Upgrades
- Licencja
- Creative Commons — Attribution — Noncommercial — Share Alike
Updated - On my second K2 the 90mm fan spacer interfered a bit with the purge chute, so I opened up the clearances around that a bit more. It wasn't sitting right on the can and got pushed in enough to interfere with the blades and cause a CP2519 error.
Bought the K2 Plus to print ABS-GF parts in my print farm. The heated enclosure in an important feature for me. The K2 heater is pretty wimpy, and to make things worse the heater draws outside air.
There are two things wrong with that:
- My work space is not heated, so it can get pretty cool in winter.
- If fresh air is blowing into the enclosure, the hot air in the box is being forced out - probably out the purge chute.
With the fan arrangement on the back, changing this was a pretty straightforward task.
Remove the exhaust fan on the left port (looking at the back of the machine). It's just a two-wire fan so there's no feedback to the controller. I left the one on the right hooked up.
Replace the fan with my 80mm fan spacer. I used the screws that were in the fan.
Loosen the purge chute so you can access the top-right screw on the heater fan.
Mount the 90mm fan spacer on the back of the heater fan.
Tighten up the purge chute.
These spacers just tighten up the gap to the back-panel so there's not a bunch of extraneous air blowing around.
Using the existing fan-grill holes, mount the u-turn duct on the back panel. I used M2x6 socket head screws. The holes in the duct are 1.5mm in the design and need to be drilled and tapped for the screws.
I use aluminum mushroom pins in my product, so I just popped a couple those on the duct for mounting a purge bucket. I used threaded inserts for the screws. You could make those holes smaller and just thread into the plastic. The STL for the pins is included - printed ones should work fine.
The enclosure still heats slowly, but it will reach 60C in my cool garage. There's also a clip on the duct for the CMS cable.
I used glass ABS for the black parts. Don't know if PLA will work since it's close to the heater. I used clear PETG for the bucket. I like to be able to see when it needs to be emptied.