Protectli VP6630 2U Rackmount Adapter

NOTE: I apologize for the print quality in the pictures above. It's awful. I'm sorting out both the design and print settings to improve this. This is a work in progress.  I am using the STLs uploaded here and they definitely work for me,  but I'm still not completely happy with it. Especially the print quality.
 

Details

I wanted to get my Protectli VP6630 off of a rack shelf, so I designed a mount for the router and it's power brick.  It fits entirely within 2U of space. It should fit most standard 19" network / audio racks. 
 

Printing

I have printed this in ABS. It may work with PLA, I haven't tried yet.

• Print in faceplate-L and faceplate-R face down. I used a textured print surface because this will be the front face in your rack. Print fastener top down.
• I used a 0.6mm nozzle and 0.3mm layer height. This will be much faster than 0.2mm (My slicer says 16hrs vs ~26hrs). For any features I thought were important, I used a height that should work with 0.2 or 0.3mm layer height.
• I used 31% infill so the faceplate top surfaces didn't have to bridge as far, but anything else should work fine. The print is mostly perimeters.
• 4 perimeters.
• I used 3 bottom and top layers (so 0.9mm), but probably should have used 4.
• No supports should be needed.

Required Parts

• 8x M3 brass heat-set inserts. I used 3x4x5.
• 8x M3x8 SHCS. 
• Optional: 4x M3x6 SHCS to secure the router to the bottom.

Assembly

• Insert two heat-set inserts into cleat. Holes for inserts are a bit tight, but they will go in. Using two m3x8 SHCS, fasten cleat to faceplate-L.
• Insert one heat-set insert into the top of the wall on faceplate-L and faceplate-R. You will screw backstrap into this later.
• Insert six heat-set inserts into back of faceplate-L and faceplate-R. Holes for inserts are a bit tight, but they will go in. 
• Lightly sand the angled mating surfaces of both faceplate-L and faceplate-R. Don't apply a lot of pressure. You're just trying to knock off nits or rough parts around the corners and the flat sides that mate. 
• With faceplate-L and faceplate-R face down on a flat surface, bring both halves together until you can fit fastener over the block formed by both haves. It should be tight.
• Using six m3x8 SHCS, fasten fastener to both faceplate parts. If you have trouble:
  • Ream out the screw holes on fastener with an M3 driver.
  • Run a screw all the way down into the faceplate inserts to be sure there isn't any plastic blocking the threaded hole
  • Alternate between screws on L vs R sides and get all six in loosely before tightening all down. 
• Carefully, turn the assembly onto its bottom. Fasten backstrap to the two inner walls, tying faceplate-L to faceplate-R.

Finishing Up

VP6630
Place the VP6640 into faceplate-R from the back. Line up the rubber feet with the slots. Ideally it sits flush against the back of the faceplate. Optionally, use one or more M3x8 or M3x6 SHCS from the bottom to screw into the four holes in the bottom plate of the VP6630. Depending on your printer, these may not line up. Do not force these to fit! On my current print, I have only one screw in, the rearmost one. I plan to make this part easier to do in a future version. 

Power brick
Now fish the power brick's output cord from the right side of the middle wall. Pull most of it through as you place the brick on the right side. Wrap the cord around the cleat a few times and then over to the VP6630. It doesn't need to be tight. Just a few wraps to help keep the power brick in place. Plug in and secure the cord on the VP6630. 

You should now be able to mount the hole thing in your rack and plug an IEC cable into the power brick. Please be careful when carrying the hole thing with your equipment in it. The router and power brick are not fully secured in this version, the can fall out the back.  It feels strong enough to me, but it definitely isn't the same as a sheet metal rackmount case. 
 

Changes I want to make

• The faceplate needs to be 2mm wider on each side.
• A better place to fasten backstrap
• More tolerance for screw holes in bottom of faceplate-R for the VP6630 bottom plate.
• Zip-tie holes or some other way to secure the power brick.
• Try printing in PLA to see if it is strong enough.
• Possibly print faceplate separately and screw it onto the brick and vp6630 holders. This might be less likely to warp when using ABS? I don't love the look of screws in the faceplate, but maybe it'll be fine?
• Definitely print L vs R in different colors. 

I'm open to ideas, comments, suggestions.