6 Cylinder Radial Compressor (300+ psi)

BILL OF MATERIALS(might not be complete)

• 6x 26-30mm acrylic tube cut to 60 to 62mm (It is hard to cut but around61mm should work the best.
• M3 screws and nuts.
• 24x 80mm M3 threaded rods
• 6x 688 bearings 8x16x5
• 3x 608 bearings 8x22x7
• 6x 623 bearing 3x10x4
• Three lazercut pieces cut with the .dxf files.
• 12x 20mm inner diameter 2mm thickness O-rings (or similar size)
• 6x 24mm inner diameter 2.67 thickness O-ring(or similar size)
• 2x 775 motors
• 2x 5mm x 5mm brass couplings
• Motor drivers
• 6mm by 6mm square rod can be any metal. You'll need to grind or sand the corners a bit to fit into the bearings.

1. 1x69mm
2. 1x 50mm
3. 1x 70mm

• pneumatic fittings

1. 12x 6mm-6mm check valve
2. 6mm hose
3. 12x G1/8-6mm fitting
4. 3x 6mm Y connectors

PRINT SETTINGS

I used PLA and it works fine but if you have the chance a material with a higher melting point will be better. The parts that are writtenin bold are subjected to pressure and use 4-6 wall layers, high temperatures and thick layers to improve air-tightness.

The piston rod is a failure point so use 6 wall layers and print it laying flat with supports.

ASSEMBLY

Before the assembly I suggest watching the assembly part of the video. I shot a stop motion scene for the build. You can follow along there.

You need to sand the top of the acrylic tube so there is no sharp corners. 

The cap_single_oring needs to be tapped with g1/8-28 tap. You should tap it from the bottom so the teeth on the top are better since the fitting will be screwed from the top.

Few tips don't overtighten screws into the plastics. When attaching the piston rod to the piston you don't have to use a nut. The screw is self-tapping itself to the plastic. But if you use a nut don't overtighten it. 

In general using locktite is a good idea. For the pneumatic fittings use thin teflon tape.

Oil the O-rings and the cylinders.

If you have any problems with the build let me know.