Gloomhaven Initiative Tokens

My husband and I started playing the Gloomhaven series from Jaws of the Lion and when we got to Gloomhaven proper, we discovered quickly that we missed the name tokens that JotL provided. There are other models here for marking initiative, but I wanted ones that were easy to read from above (this was a key point, as our game table has a significant glare thanks to the overhead light, making raised or engraved lettering in the same colors difficult to see) and had multiple colors in the same layer. I decided to make them myself.

I challenged myself by making these printable with color switching in the same layer. I don't, however, have an MMU (yet!), so I had to get creative. 

I started by scanning the JotL tokens and importing them in to Onshape (my 3D program of choice) and sketching out the key images, and then proceeding with extraction and booleans. To make sure that I could print in multiple colors, I had to keep each shape as an independent part, but to be sure that the body of the token wouldn't overwrite the shapes, I had to cut them out of the main plate. That is why if you remove the parts, you'll still have the outlines. This also meant that I had to have two tokens: the monsters, with have the skull icon, and the characters, which don't have anything in the left (orange, in pictured below) box.

Update: I have also included a version that is more like a “classic” sign, the non-MMU version. This has the decals and the text extruded away from the base of the token. I have not printed this version as I always wanted the flat token, so print at your own risk.

Additional Notes

• I intended these to be printed with a layer height of .12mm and a nozzle of .25mm. I don't know how they'd do with a .4nozzle, but I assume they'd work. Feel free to contact me if it looks weird at that size and I'll be happy to provide models properly scaled.
• I highly recommend printing the token with the text at the top and enabling ironing. You will likely need to use brims and if you start the print with lettering color (which you almost definitely will if you print face-down) it is very difficult to get all the color off the border. 
• I printed the main body of the token with the same filament I used as the base of my monster tokens (see my makes for a sample of these), but I wanted all the monsters to have the red writing. This means that the color matchups aren't always the best or easiest to read. We like the matching colors and figures, but I think if filament waste wasn't an issue, I'd reprint the monster tokens to all have the same base color, as they do in JotL. 
• To limit the number of filament switches if doing the MMU version, keep the text the same depth as the parts: .24mm. If the layer height is .12mm, this means that you'll only have to do two switches. 
• If you're using the non-MMU version, the text should be .5mm high, the same height of the parts
• If you want to scale the dimensions, just be sure to do it across the whole object, not just the individual part. 
• I printed each token as I finished printing the monster figures, so you can see the evolution of tuning. The latest tokens I've printed are the Deep Terror and the Quartermaster, and those settings are the ones I'm sharing with you below.

How to do the text:

You'll notice that the models don't have any text. This is intentional. You'll need to add the text as a modifier (if you want it flat with the decals). If you want to use the Gloomhaven text, I downloaded them here: https://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/195867/goomhaven-fonts [Credit to Meaulnes at https://boardgamegeek.com/user/Meaulnes ]. You'll need to download both the gloomhaven-name.otf and gloomhaven-characters.oft. Use the gloomhaven-name.otf for the label (right, purple box) and the gloomhaven-characters.otf for the icon in the left (orange) box of the player token. 

How to print these flat without an MMU (ie single-extruder):

The following is using PrusaSlicer. I don't know how to do it in the other slicers, but I expect it'll be similar.

1. Go to Printers and under General → Capabilities: 

• Extruders: 2
• Single Extruder Multi Material: Checked

2. Go to the “Custom G-code” and copy the following: 

• In “Tool change G-code”: “{if layer_num >= 0}M600 ; change to filament for extruder {next_extruder + 1} {endif}” *

*You want this layer_num ≥ 0 so the printer doesn't try to unload the filament at the very start. It was a very annoying “bug”! You want the {next_extruder + 1} because without it, the printer won't stop to unload and the color switch won't happen!

3. Go to the Extruder 1 (and then 2) page under Printers and adjust the settings as needed, but especially the last box, “retraction when tool is disabled” (see image). I adjusted the following for my printer based on trial and error, but you might not need to. You know your printer and your filament. Make sure to do the changes for both extruders!

• Under Travel Lift: “Use ramping lift”: “False” 
• Under Retraction: “Detraction Speed”: 0, “Retract on Layer Change”: True
• Under Retraction when tool is disabled: “Length”: 4 [REQUIRED] *

*If you don't adjust the retraction length, you will get blobs of filament on your wipe tower as the filament unloads that the nozzle will hit the next time it comes by!

3. Go to the “Single extruder MM setup” under printers and again, adjust as needed. These settings are, again, for my printer, but there's a good chance you'll need to do them. I'd actually start with these settings and see how it goes.  

• Cooling tube position: 0
• Filament parking position: 0 (so you don't potentially start changing the filament over the actual print!)
• Extra loading distance: 0

4. Go back to the plate and set the default extruder to be the color you want the base to be and change the “physical_card” to print with extruder 1. Everything else should be extruder 2. (Note, in these pictures, I don't have any text modifiers. Yours should and it should be in the same extruder as the decals)