MuPiBox by MyChaOS

MuPiBox / Phoniebox / Musicplayer based on Raspberry Pi

I use this for my 21-month-old as her music player, as I am planning to skip on Tonies

https://mupibox.de/ – to learn more about MuPiBox in general
https://phoniebox.de/ would also work
Or for larger kids, something like https://volumio.com/

BOM:

Although I try to account for everything, please don't blame me if I forgot something. 

I am not affiliated or paid at all by any of the mentioned vendors/product manufacturers/shops, I paid everything myself in full

• PETG in colors you like
  • Choosing PETG as it's basically non-breakable over other filament here…
  • I used some generic PLA for the support structures (as then I can use a soluble support profile, as these two don't fuse together that well
• Raspberry Pi 4 - a Raspberry Pi 5 should also work, or a “3+” is probably as well enough, please note these would probably need different spacers/coolers
  • Screen Waveshare 5" 800x480 DSI Low Power Capacitive Touch https://www.amazon.de/dp/B08H23KB1G
    • Screen Protector (1mm to wide, but can be cut - its a foil not a full glass)
      https://www.amazon.de/dp/B01FO66NZK 
  • Cooler Case
    https://www.amazon.de/dp/B08N617L1J
    • I added some thermal paste to 
  • Storage 128GB USB Stick (Low Profile! Size is up to you)
    https://www.amazon.de/dp/B07HPZ9ZDF
  • Spacers:
    • M2.5 4x6 mm + 4x11 mm worked well for me for spacing the cooler and the MupiHat with a 20x2 Pin Extension (length 12mm)
    • M2.5x5 mm, which I found with the display or the Cooler
    • Best is to have a set around, same for 2x20 Pin Standoffs, then you see what fits
      https://www.amazon.de/dp/B08G8M9WX7
      https://www.amazon.de/dp/B07Z89GMHS
• MuPiHat - On/Off Shim, Sound Card, Charger all in one
  • directly from its developer: https://mupihat.de/products/mupihat-2 
  • Other options are getting all these separate and plugging them together
• On/Off Button
  • https://mupihat.de/products/taster-mit-led-und-anschlusskabel
• Speakers:
  • Fisatron FRS8/8Ohm 80mm
    https://www.amazon.de/dp/B0056BQA4S
  • Speaker Cable… I used some leftover cables I had from my HIFI
  • Conector shoes 3.3mm and 5.5mm two each, or you solder the cable to the speakers
    https://www.amazon.de/dp/B07TB1C7MS 
• Power Plug for Backplate
  • https://www.amazon.de/dp/B0D17K3CCY 
• Fan:
  • Noctua 40mm 5V PWM (4 Pin to have it regulated)
    https://www.amazon.de/dp/B07DXS86G7
    Any other 40mm 5V PWM should work as well
  • 3 Lane Male-Female Jumper Cable (10cm are enough)
• Battery Pack
  • Any 2S2P should theoretically work. Holder in Backplane is made for this one:
    https://enerprof.de/products/enerpower-2s2p-fur-mupibox-akku-10ah-li-ion-7-2v-7-4v-2x2-xh-18 
  • 5mm Zip Ties [4pcs]
• Screws (for all except the already included ones I suggest a hex drive, and having a ballhead screwdriver at hand)
  • M3x10 [14pcs] cylindrical head for the backplate and display (visible from outside, so color could make a difference)
  • M2.5x5 [4pcs] for the Mupihat on the Spacers (included with the cooler suggested, if I remember right)
  • M4x8 [8pcs] for the speakers, flathead or cylindrical
  • M5x16 [4pcs] for the Handles + M5 washers
  • M2.5x16 [2pcs] for the fan Holder onto the display (also those were included with something I bought, probably the cooler)
  • M2.5x8mm [4pcs] grub screw to mount the coolerto the display standoff, but still enabling inserting another spacer from above (VERY Important!)
• Thread Inserts
  • I used CNC-Kitchen or Ruthex ones
    https://cnckitchen.store/collections/threaded-inserts 
    https://www.ruthex.de/en/collections/gewindeeinsatze 
  • M3x5.7mm [14pcs]
  • M4x4mm short [8pcs]
  • M5x9.5mm [4pcs]
• Handle
  • 22mm round wood 16cm length

Printing Guide

• This is not an easy Print (especially in two colors, and it has a lot of overhangs.
• You probably need to tune it for your printer a bit
  • I printed a display face corner for that (with the steepest overhang to tune print settings), use the Cut tool to make that small and not waste too much material
• I also added the Sliced version so you can see my settings
• For single color prints, you can ignore the ColorChanger / for 2 Color Prints it's important to Import All objects into your workspace as a Single Object Having Parts
  
• I went for this on all Parts:
  • 3 Perimeters
  • Gyroid Infill
  • On Multipaterial (Support PLA + Object PETG i suggest using a PETG Extruder for Bed Temperature and as Wipe Tower extruder) 

Settings for different pieces

• Display_Holder:
  easy to print, lay flat on the bed, any color, you will not see it at all
• Fan_Holder is also not visible from the outside,
  • Printed on the face using organic supports
    
• Grip Left/Right
  • Lay on the side with the Big hole, supports for rounding, no support needed onthe  big hole
• Backplate
  • Import everything, remove all parts except ColorModifier and backplate, right click Color Modifier → Change Type Modifier (Double check that they are one object)
  • Lay flat on the bed 
  • Choose Colors for the modifier and rest (Double check it in the sliced settings)
  • Support Screw Holes only
  • Use beam interlocking
    • Interlocking Direction 0° (our seam is diagonal, so this felt better for me)
  • Use brim to prevent warping (I always go 15mm to be sure)
• Shell
  • Hardest Part to Print
  • Import as you did with the backplate
  • Print on the display face 
  • I recommend using snug supports on the Baseplate only in PLA, which does not bind hard onto PETG
    • Preset Soluable Support
    • Pattern Honeycomb
    • Top Interface Layers: 6
    • Bottom Interface layers: 3
    • Interface Pattern: Concentric
    • Interface Pattern Spacing: 0
    • Interface Loops
    • Support on build plate only
    • If you cannot print with material changes, I suggest trying organic supports, but then I would exclude most of the speaker grids and perhaps change the chamfer around the display to make it easier to print
  • Use beam interlocking
    • Interlocking Direction 0° (our seam is diagonal, so this felt better for me)
  • I recommend printing the crucial corner as a test
    
    • Use the cut tool to make it a small quick 1h print with little wasted material… if that works fine the rest should as well, this is the hardest part

Build Guide

1. Print
   
   
2. Put Heat Inserts in with your soldering Iron
   1. DisplayHolder M3 [6pcs]
      
   2. Shell (for backplate) M3 [8Pcs]
   3. Speakers M4 [8pcs] (short ones 4mm, the holes have no space for the long ones, those would pierce the shell)
      
   4. Handles M5 [4pcs]
3. Put Wood Handle 
   1. You should see 13cm between the holders.
   2. Attach Holder to shell with M5x16 screws, steep side is in front; best use washers…
      
      
4. Prepare Display Unit
   1. Add 6mm spacers to the four inner studs.
      Put on a Screen Protector, let it overhang to one side,and  use a sharp scalpel/cutter to remove the excess carefully.
      
   2. Add the display holder as shown
      
   3. Put grub screws (from top into Heatsink); those should stick out minimal to help you position them.
      
   4. Place Raspberry on Display, 
      Add a 2x20 pin spacer (helps with positioning) and heatsink.
      Use thermal paste or thermal pads on the two chips where the heatsink is sticking out.
      Apply slight pressure and scarefulls screw in the four grub screws in the corners.
      It should now be well secured without any gaps onto the Raspberry Pi and be attached to the display.
      
   5. Add spacers in all 4 Corners
      For me 6mm+11mm worked best
      
   6. Connect the display with the short DSI Cable
   7. Attach MuPiHat and Secure it with the M2.5x5 Screws
      
   8. Secure the Fan to the fan holder (Airflow to the left in the picture)
      Insert the four rubber things as shown in the picture and pull them all the way through (yes, they are meant differently, but this is easier in a 3d print)
      
      Prescrew the M2.5x16 screws as well.
   9. Wire the Fan (Double Check, in my case brown is (-), red(+5v), and Orange PWM steering signal to GPIO 12)
      
      
   10. Attach the Fan With the 2 Screws on the Display studs
       
   11. Install Cables on Speakers (either crimp on proper cable shoes or solder them to the Speakers) and connect them to the MuPiHat (Green Connectors)  and double check polarity
   12. Check the Battery switch, and the stereo switches on the MuPiHat; they become hard to reach later on
   13. Insert the USB Stick (With your Raspberry Pi image), it's hard to reach it later on
   14. I suggest testing the Assembly at that point and booting up (See MuPiHat Settings further down)
   15. Put Assembly to the Side
5. Prepare Backplate
   1. Insert Zip Ties
      
   2. Insert Charging port and secure it with its screw
   3. Add battery, secure with zip ties
      
   4. Put Aside
6. Install Left Speaker (Important! Left one first, See Picture Step 7)
   1. Secure with 4 M4x8 Screws
7. Insert the Display Assembly as shown in the picture
   
   Now you see why left Speaker first, it's almost impossible to screw it in at that point.
8. Carefully secure the display from the front using M3x10 screws, make sure they grab the inserts and don't push the display holder away.
9. Insert the Power Button and wire it up.
   
   
10. Insert the Right Speaker and secure it… (yes the back screws are hard to insert)
    Best is to turn the shell on the side, you need a bit of patience (a ballhead screwdriver helps massively in turning those)
     
11. Wire Up Battery and Power Plug
    1. Power plug to the USB-C on the MuPiHat
    2. The battery on the Jumper next to it
       
12. Looking from the back, battery is at the bottom, charging port left, secure backplate with eight screws M3x10 
    

Congratulations, you have done it!

MuPiBox OS Settings

• Follow https://mupibox.de/anleitungen/installationsanleitung/einfache-installation/ for the first install.
• Go to the admin interface
• MuPiHat
  • Set Activation State (yes)
  • Choose your battery Profile
  • Save
• MuPi-Conf
  • Power On Settings
    • LED GPIO OnOffShim: 13
    • Submit
  • Fan-Control
    • Fan Activation state: true
    • Fan GPIO: 12
    • Submit
• On startup, you should also hear something from your speakers now
• Now you can test it (easiest for me was to follow the radio setup guide from the homepage
  • Use the MuPiBox Screen on the Admin interface and hammer the top right screen corner
  • Then add a radio station with the + symbol