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F1 Ferrari Steering Wheel — zdjęcie 1
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F1 Ferrari Steering Wheel

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Credit to F1 Steering Wheel by Ata Mert Aka. his model has 2D surfaces that can't be 3D printed. I fixed it 4 printing

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Źródło
Printables
Kategoria
Automotive
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Creative Commons — Attribution — Share Alike

Credit to F1 Steering Wheel by  Ata Mert Aka.


It is a 100% accurate engineering model with over 200 pieces. Every, screw, nut, circuit board, screen, etc … but it has many 2D surfaces that can't be 3D printed. Anywhere that was carbon fiber was a 2 dimensional surface = a shape with Zero thickness. It shows up on CAD, and in the STL, but the 2D surfaces are invisible to a 3D printer / slicer. My first 12 hour print had a lot of missing pieces, especially the hand grips where I first noticed the problem.

I created a rough model copy of a Solid steering wheel inside of the 2D SolidWorks surfaces to provide 3D structure that can be printed. I did many iterations to STL and then I checked the results in the slicer. There were many holes in the G-code and gaps in the infill that had to be patched in CAD.

At first I wasted hours trying to individually edit all 248 parts, erasing washers, circuits, screws, etc. Dumb. That didnt really help. I figured it would be better to fill the object solid, rather than trying to hollow it out. So redraw new 3D parts instead of converting existing 2D parts into 3D. 

I copied the outline of the grips to make a 3D object that fit closely, but not perfectly to the SolidWorks model. Then I found a lot more of the surface model had to be solidified. The hub didnt connect to anything. The shift paddles were hollow in back and I had to recreate that. The whole carbon fiber back clamshell 2D surface had to be redrawn in 3D. I did many iterations to STL and then I checked the results in the slicer. 

This is revision #09 - WIP. 

The 12 hour print is finished. It works.

Slicer Prints Tips: 
I reduced the full scale 287mm wheel to 180 mm. (= 12 hours) The failed print is at 190mm.
Orient the screen facing up and  hub facing down, then slide the hub below the bed, to avoid printing most of it.
There is a ton of support material. So much that it damaged the print when I tore it off.
I changed the spacing from 1.33mm to 1.5mm to make the support weaker.

'Concrete' PLA filament = gray with black particles
 

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