Nerf Desolator auto pusher

Long shelved project finally completed now that the Nerf Desolator is probably forgotten and impossible to find. This modification adds an auto pusher to this blaster in a very inconspicuous way. It uses a cam rather than rack and segmented gear.

Disclaimer:

Use at your own risk. I am not responsible for damage or injury that may result.

Hardware:

• TT DC gearbox motor
  • 1:48 plastic gearbox was great but didn't hold up
  • 1:90 full metal gearbox is a little slow but tough
• two MF63 flanged bearings (3x6x2.5mm)
• two small 10Amp hinge lever micro switches
  • e.g. cherry DB2
• one M2.5 x 14mm screw and hex nut
• one M2 x 8mm self taping screw
  • for trigger switch
  • machine screws work too
• two M2 x 10mm self taping screw
  • for pusher switch
  • machine screws work too
• two M2 x 5mm self taping screw
  • for linkage joints
  • will probably need to be longer screws trimmed to length
  • machine screws work too
• three medium “nerf” plastic screw
  • #3-24 or M2.6 thread
  • 1/4" to 3/8" or 6mm to 8mm long
• compression spring for trigger
• (optional) upgraded pusher motor
• (optional) reinforced 8t pinion
  • Tamiya Mini 4wd JR carbon reinforced (15453)

Notes:

Based on and sharing some parts with the Woody7070 stryfe v2 auto pusher that was taken down and reuploaded without instructions by airzone (with permission). This pusher mod is much less straight forward due to the internal space inside the Desolator compared to the Nerf Stryfe. At a glance this will not work Rebelle Rapid Red. Mechanism fit isn't quite what I'd like but works well enough. It doesn't seem to be as constrained and aligned as it is with the Stryfe v2 auto kit.

Mod instructions:

This mod will require extensive shell modification to implement. No exact measurements here as I was just doing it by hand trial and error.

1. The bracket will be secured using the screw post for the current limit PCB (the community often calls this the thermistor) and new hole through a faux screw in the right shell.
   
2. Modifications in the right side shell:
   • Trim down below the hump or remove obstructing shell ribs, posts and wire anchors (red boxes below).
   • Trim down the post so that the screw will tighten on the spacer. I don't really remember why I did it this way instead of making the spacer taller. (yellow box)
   • Trim the rib above the pusher to give clearance for the motor wiring. You can do less. I got over-zealous (also yellow box).
     
   • Make oversized M2.5 hole through the remaining ribs (blue above) so that you can align the switch plate at the bottom of the shell and flush with the edge of the ribs (also blue above). Glue the switch plate in place using the M2.5 x 14mm screw and hex nut to secure switch and hold in place while glue sets.
   • You can remove the switch after glue sets or solder the switch connectors before installing the switch plate.
   • Run an M2 x 8mm screw through the trigger so that it will contact the switch. You will bend the switch lever to set the desired trigger pull.
     
     
3. Modifications in the left side shell:
   • Glue the pusher cover onto the outside of the shell. White, medium thickness cyanoacrylate glue is a pretty good color match and fills the gaps well.
   • Remove the internal shell below the cover so that it doesn't interfere with the mechanism.
     
4. Trim the axle of the TT gearbox to the thickness of the spindle on the top side and completely off (if dual axle) on the underside.
5. (optional) replace the DC motor of the TT gearbox motor with a better one for the voltages and speeds you desire. Swap or replace with an upgrade the pinion on the new motor.
6. Install the TT motor into the bracket and secure with a medium nerf screw from below. Soldering the motor wires before or after is a preference.
7. Mount the bracket into the right shell using two medium nerf screws. One into the PCB post from above and one from through the shell from below.
8. Insert MF63 flange bearings into the spindle and and connector rod.
9. Run M2 screws through the bearings and into the matching parts to create the linkage from spindle to pusher. Trim the screws flush after installing. You may need to play with the tightness.
10. Align pusher into position and press the spindle onto the gearbox spindle.
    
11. Mount limit switch behind spindle using two M2 x 10mm screws and bend lever to actuate correctly.
12. Wire up blaster in preferred configuration; live center or dead center.