Mini DDR Style controller

## Hardware Store Finds
- 10-24 3/4 inch flat screw, this may need adjustment for thicker materials
- 10-24 threaded insert
- Foam weather stripping, softer the better, this is to take up space from the threaded insert
- 1/4" Copper tape
- 1" or wider Foil tape
- Carbon filter
- 3mm x ~16mm button screws for the electronics cover
- Hard Board for base plate, 1/4 polycarb
- Adhesive hook and loop about the same width as what your buttons will be. ~ 3/4 of an inch would work

## Tools
- 3d printer, > 255x255 should fit everything
- Files, sand paper to clean up edges
- Paper printer and jig saw or CNC to cut out the base plate
- Scissors
- Utility Knife
- Soldering Iron
- Fire of some sort, lighter, torch, gas grill anything to shrink your tubing.

## Electronics
- PCB will need to be created, choose your poison. I created mine with laser paint and the 1:1 vinegar to hydrogen peroxide mix. This also takes a bit of salt as well.
- You will need an Arduino Pro Micro, they have USB-c versions now
- Long cable to match your Arduino, this will be attached to the pad, otherwise you will break many pro micros
- Trimmer Pots 10k
- Screw Terminals (optional)
- Resistor Multi Pack
- 3/5 inch wide heat strink tubing
- 2x arcade button for forward and back, this can be excluded or added later.
## Printing
- I would recommend printing these parts with a .6 or .8 mm nozzle for the extra strength, since you are stepping on these prints. .4 will work with a few extra shells, top layers and a bit more infill
- You may want to print test pieces for your hold downs, this may need some adjustments to work with thicker materials.
- .4 Nozzle settings ([[Slicer Settings]])
- I took the Voron Trident default settings
- 40% Infill gyroid
- 5 top,bottom and shells
- Quality -> Walls and Surfaces -> Walls Printing Order -> Inner Outer Inner 
- Quality -> ??? -> Precise Wall (This will squish the inner wall and leave the outer wall un squished)
- I used mouse ears instead of brim, you may want to choose something there.
- You will need to also break into objects with the overall stl.
## Cutting
- You will want to either print out a 1 to 1 paper version and tape or PVA glue this to your base plate materials. You should be able to cut everything with a basic hand saw.
- A CNC is probably the easiest way to get this cut if you go that route take case on the holes you may need to print out the jig and drill them afterwards if you do not have a small enough bit.

## Buttons
- you will need to measure your heat shrink tubing width you will want to make cardboard strips about 1/16-1/8 skinnier than your tubing You will need two per button. I leave one slightly longer for attaching wires
- on the top use your aluminum foil tape. Just enough to cover the cardboard for the top
- bottom you will need 2 strips, this will be your longer cardboard piece. Make sure you have about an 1/8th of an inch or so of space. In the end just enough to be fairly equal and not touching
- Carbon filter, I have mine cut into strips and fold it over on itself to allow for a double thick layer
- Then slide everything into the tube, aluminum and copper will face the carbon. This will create your variable resistor
- Then shrink this down be careful to not melt the carbon filter.
- Once it cools you will want to put pressure onto them.
## PCB
For most people using a PCB manufacture is probably the best way. If you want to make it yourself it is single sided and can be made using laser paint. For etching I normally use one part vinegar to one part hydrogen peroxide then dabble some salt to start the reaction with the copper.

- When you have your PCB start with the low profile parts like resistors. I started with 150k ohm resistors that matched up well with my home made buttons

## Assembly
1. You may need to use a blade to take off any brims you may have on the prints
2. The joints should slip together fairly tight you may need to tap them together.
3. You will need to use the base plate to help fill in the threaded inserts. You will want the wide part of the insert on the opposite side of where the baseplate is. Think of it like a bolt
4. You will then want to fill in the ones for the other panels and hold downs. on the end where wires would go through ( see the tracks on the back side) you will see 2 extra holes. This is there in case you need a bit more holding in this area. Sometimes the weather stripping bends things a bit more than you would like.