SOSS Hidden Hinge Mortise Router Template – All sizes!

Introduction

This is a set of jigs that you can use to route the stepped mortices to install your SOSS invisible hinges. There are model files for every standard type of the SOSS hinge. They come in two flavours, depending on the combination of bushing diameter, and router bit diameter:

1. The BOSCH series: 17-mm (⅔ ") outer diameter bushing, and an 8-mm router bit, which come included, e.g., with BOSCH routers such as my POF 1400.
2. The GENERIC series: 16-mm bushing and an 8-mm bit.

Suggestions to support another size combination are welcome.

Users' Guide

Your first step will be choosing the right size of the jig, depending on the hinge model type you have. Before you start, though, you should know that each model contains five components:

• The main plate with a fixed fence
• Two insert stops
• Two depth gauges

The components are all included in a single stl file, and can be printed all at once, which is recommended. If you absolutely have to print a separate piece, use your slicer to isolate it.

1. Select Size

Each SOSS hinge is characterised by a set of dimensions. Not all of them are necessary to create the mortise. The combination of leaf (hinge face) width and length is pretty unique, and you can go by that if you don't know your model beforehand. The examples and photos bellow will be based off model 204, whose leaf is 12.70 × 60.33 mm. Sizes are in millimetres!

The individual dimensions given in the table have the following meanings:

Only dimensions A, C, E, F,  H, and I are used in making the mortise. 

Main dimensions seen from face

Main dimensions seen from the side

2. Attach Template to Workpiece

Position the template’s fence flush with the panel edge. There is an inconspicuous centreline on the inner walls of the template if you need that. Then clamp the fence securely to the panel. The fence is set at distance E, the maximum recommended offset. If you want to reduce it, insert a distance block between the fence and the workpiece before clamping.

3. Set Router Depth for Leaf Mortise

Use the shallower depth gauge (for leaf). Adjust the router so that the bit just touches the gauge surface. Important note: The gauge already takes into account the thickness of the main plate of the jig. Use it just as you see in the photo: it will set your depth to plate thickness + desired depth.

4. Route the Leaf Mortise

This is a standard routing job. Make sure that the bushing and proper router bit are in place.

5. Insert Stops

Slide the end-stops into the aperture within the jig, each at one end. Be aware that they may be impeded by accumulated dust. Make sure they slid all the way in. Note that in the picture on the left the barrel mortise is already finished – it's just my timing issue in taking photos for this guide.

6. Set the Depth for the Barrel Mortise

Use the deeper depth gauge (for barrel) and adjust the bit depth accordingly, repeating the same process as in step 3.  Again, note that the thickness of the main plate of the jig is already included in the depth of the gauge.

7. Route the Barrel Mortise

Again, a straightforward routing job. Before you proceed, double-check that you have inserted the end-stops, and that they slid all in.

8. Test-fit your Hinge

You should be done. Continue with routing the mortice in the opposing workpiece.

Printing

As explained above, each individual stl file contains all required components. I print in PLA at 0.2-mm thickness. I chose PLA because it bends less than PETG. Unlike other 3D-printed templates for my woodworking shop, this jig really doesn't get much abuse in service.