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USB powered LED Glue Trap for Gnats — zdjęcie 1
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USB powered LED Glue Trap for Gnats

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Two color LED attractant light source with a clear replaceable sticky film on top

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Źródło
Printables
Kategoria
Electronics
Licencja
Creative Commons — Attribution

My wife has a metal rack shelves with grow lights for her many plants. Sometimes gnats propagate in the soil and eventually swarm the area. Vinegar in cups have been effective for the problem, but I hate the smell. This is my alternative I discovered. I found research that gnats are attracted to certain wavelengths of light, basically green and purple UV range. One picture shows several gnats captured in my work area over a couple of nights. Since this is a one shot or maybe two shot project I did not go as far as making a printed circuit board. 

I used these parts from Amazon. 

  • (Solder Finished Prototype PCB for DIY 5x7cm Circuit Board Breadboard) 
  • (200pcs 10 Colors x 20pcs 5mm LED Light Emitting Diode Assorted Kit 29mm Lead Clear Round Lamp White Red Blue Green Yellow UV Bright LEDs Bulb +300pcs Resistors for DC 6-12V Lights) 
  • (DIY Male Connector/MINI Micro USB to DIP Adapter 2.54mm 5pin Female Connector B Type USB2.0). There is also a USB-C version too. 
  • (Window Fly Traps, 30 Pack Sticky Fly Traps for Indoors, Fly Catchers for Inside Home, Waterproof & Non-Toxic Adhesive Sticky Paper Trap for Mosquitos Bugs Housefy Fruit Fly Flying Gnats.) Cut to size.

The pack of LEDs also had resistors included. I used one 430 ohm for the green LEDs and two in parallel for lower resistance for the purple UV LEDs. When I checked the total current draw through a USB meter it did not show any so I concluded the draw is less than 100ma. I alternated rows of LEDs, but any configuration should work. The printed reflector can be used for a guide for placing the LEDs on the circuit board. The USB slot in the box is extra wide to allow some adjustment in placing the USB connector (hot glue in place). Once the board is tested and placed with the reflector in the box, the keeper presses in to keep it all together. Two holes on the bottom side is for pushing the assembly back out if needed and a 4mm threaded hole is in the end for any type of mounting.

I used white and yellow generic PLA at 0.20 layers, 3 walls, 20% infill

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