Custom ITX case for 200mm radiator watercooling

None of the ITX cases on the market were exactly what I wanted. I decided to put together something more custom. Article on All3DP. More pics and build details here.

NOTICE: This project was put together for very specific components. Modifications will likely be required if these specific parts are not used:

Asrock X570 Phantom Gaming-ITX/TB3 motherboard (other ITX boards should work, but the stripes on the side panel line up with this board's edge LEDs). An STL of a version of the rear panel without the holes for the DP ribbon cable can also be printed for other ITX boards (Rear_Panel_Without_Ribbon_Holes.stl).

Gigabyte GeForce RTX 3070 GAMING OC using a Bykski GPU Water Block and Backplate (N-GV3070GMOC-X)

Phobya Xtreme 200 Radiator - 85mm Version 2 - Full Copper

Noctua NF-A20

An SFX power supply

The SD card slot and bracket for the front IO were made for a piece of PCB a dremeled off of an old Acer prebuilt. The front panel USB 3.0 ports were made for an adapter that came with an old Asrock motherboard. The Pump potentiometer bracket was made for the control knob of a Barrow CPU block integrated pump reservoir. For these reasons, you will probably need to make your own IO panel, and just use mine as a template.

The power buttons are designed to use any standard Cherry MX switch.

If there is any interest in designing parts to fit other components or be more standard in general, please let me know!

Print Settings

Printer Brand:

Prusa

Printer:

I3 MK3S

Rafts:

No

Supports:

Yes

Resolution:

0.2mm

Infill:

20%

Filament: Overture PETG Black, Clear Notes:

All parts were printed on Prusa's textured PEI bed. I wouldn't recommend PLA or any other material with worse thermal properties than PETG.

The Cherry switch bracket and Pump potentiometer bracket need support. The top panel was printed with custom supports, but it might print fine without (not tested).

All panel pieces were printed with a brim to help with corner adhesion.

The top panel is meant to be printed with 2 pauses to insert 2x M3 nuts each pause. If similar striping is desired, it will also require 12 filament swaps.

Post-Printing

Except for the top panel that needs it's nuts inserted while printing, all other parts that need nuts are printed with slots to drop M3 nuts into after the print is finished.

Save a few exceptions, all printed parts are connected together with M3 nuts and 12mm M3 screws. Here are amazon links for exactly what I used:

Nuts

12mm Screws

The 4 screws that connect the bottom panel, fan, and radiator are also M3, but need to be 40mm long. I got mine at a hardware store, but something like this should work:

40mm Screws

The 4 motherboard standoffs need to have an 8mm body length and at least a 6mm thread length. This is what I used:

Standoffs

The motherboard will also need 4x M3 screws to attach it to the standoffs if it didn't already come with them. They'll need to be short enough to fit in the standoffs. Something like this:

4mm Screws

All other fasteners needed should be included with your PC parts. You may need to source replacements for the screws your PSU came with if they are shorter than 6mm thread.

Category: Computer