Remix - Centauri Carbon 1 Spool Holder Cap V2 (now made to fit updated Gen 2, Batch2 Centauri Carbon 1's, that have a 3 mm thick, 1 mm thicker than Gen 1, right side metal panel)

The original “Centauri Carbon Spool Holder Cap V2” by Gerald Pierre Louis will only fit the original non-the spool holder recess (hole) on the ECC1, which in turn rendered the original “V2” make unusable for use on the updated Gen 2 (and newer) Centauri Carbon 1's. This remix has a modified by 1.50 mm depth (which accounts for the extra 1.00 mm depth of the stock spool holder recess, on the gen 2 and newer model ECC's, plus an extra 0.5 mm depth for the knurled knob portion of the make, just to make the knob not hit so close to the metal side panel as compared to the original “V2” make), as I did not want it rubbing on the metal side panel paint when you do the final tightened turn of the knob, so that is where the 0.5mm extra depth is needed, that is 16.0 mm for the Z axis, and it also has a slighter larger circumference (as I found the original “V2” part didn't fill the recess) as compared to the original “V2” make, to accommodate the 1 mm thicker metal side panels that come on the updated Centauri Carbon 1's. The dimensions as seen in OrcaSlicer “Resize” function are “Scale: X: 45.45 mm, Y: 45.45 mm, Z: 16.00 mm) and for the object size stats it shows: “Size: 45.45 x 45.45 x 16.00 mm”). And just for reference, the original “V2” make dimensions were: "Size: 44.00 x 44.00 x 14.50 mm”). The tolerances are tight in that stock spool holder recess area to be able to screw it in and out easy enough, without it getting jammed in the stock spool holder recess, so I only know that if your ECC1 is dialed in for the calibration that this print should work on that printer, however you can play with the X/Y/Z scaling slightly if for some reason it can't turn in and out. With the dimensions here printed on my ECC1 Gen 2 printer with SUNLU Silk Purple & Black PLA+ (that used a ”Carbon Fiber PET Plate"), and I also tested it with Elegoo ASA Black, where both of those filament prints are shown in the photos, the dimensions fit and it turns in and out great, and once fitted in the recess is not loose at all. The nice thing about this design is that because it has a knurled knob on the end it can be easily turned in and out of the recess, and in testing I don't think it can get stuck in the recess like I've seen some others have that issue with, and it requires no tool to remove the cap (which can damage the filament material, especially with PLA, in many cases, after some use of taking a cap in and out), and this design looks better than any of the alternatives in my mind.

In most of the photos it shows this remixed part in a black & purple SUNLU Silk PLA+, that was printed on a "Carbon Fiber PET plate", and in two photos there is also near the bottom of those photos a black version of the modified cap that was printed using black Elegoo ASA, that was printed on the stock ECC “Textured PEI plate” (Side A). In order to get a good Carbon Fiber texture to transfer, that looks cleaner, special settings were utilized to optimize the print quality for that build plate type (which are detailed in a paragraph below).

Standard filaments ECC print settings (using the “Textured PEI plate” for the “Plate type” setting in OrcaSlicer, not the “Carbon Fiber PET plate (using thr ”Smooth cool plate" plate choice in that case) that was utilized in my photo of this remixed make in my case).
0.20 mm or 0.16 mm layer height (I used 0.20 mm). For both the “Layer height” and the “First layer height” in that case.
5% to 15% gyroid infill (my photo is of the 5% gyroid infill printed on ECC 2nd gen). This is not a load bearing part, that holds no weight in the recess by itself, so there probably isn't any point to more than 5% infill, or maybe any infill at all. No Supports (there are 2 x built in supports on the model but no need to enable Supports as a slicer option), No Brim, No raft.  I would enable “Auto Bed Leveling” before printing since the tolerances are very tight.

Or, if printing on a “Carbon Fiber PET” plate, to get the carbon fiber texture imprint on the first layer (bottom) of this make, like my photos show, I used the following settings for those better results, otherwise without some or all of these settings in place (mostly the ones that have asterisks at the start) the quality of the carbon fiber imprint on the first layer, with this plate, was never great until these settings were dialed in):

Use the “Smooth cold plate” as the plate choice in the slicer app in the case, which sticks really good for me (no brim is needed).
Quality section of OrcaSlicer:
*Layer height : First layer height: 0.08 mm
Layer height : Layer height: 0.20 (or 0.16 mm)
*Line width : First layer: 0.4 mm
Ironing: No ironing (I didn't see the need at least)
*Wall generator : Wall generator: Arachne (with defaults in OrcaSlicer once that is enabled)
Walls and surfaces : Only one wall on first layer: Enabled
Walls and surfaces : Avoid crossing walls: Enabled (I'm not sure if this is needed though)
Strength section of OrcaSlicer:
Walls : Wall loops: 2 (this isn't a load bearing part keep in mind), or you can use 3 or 4 probably (I only tried 2).
Walls : Detect thin walls: Enabled (to enable this setting checkbox, you must not have “Arachne” enabled, so change that setting back to the default, then you can enable this checkbox. Then re-enable “Arachne” after that. I'm not sure if it actually uses that setting though in the end.
Top/bottom shells : Top shell layers: 5
Top/bottom shells : Top surface pattern : Rectilinear (I didn't try anything else here)
Top/bottom shells : Bottom shell layers: 4
*Top/bottom shells : Bottom surface pattern: Hilbert Curve (this makes a big difference on the print quality if using a Carbon Fiber PET plate!)
Top/Bottom shells : Top/Bottom solid infill/wall overlap : 25% (this is needed for the above setting)
Infill : Sparse infill density: 5%
Infill : Sparse infill pattern: Gyroid
*Use Rectilinear for the rest of the “infill” related settings besides the single above infill setting.
Infill : Apply gap fill: Everywhere
Infill : Infill/wall overlap: 25%
Speed section of OrcaSlicer:
*Speed : First layer: 30 mm/s (it just needs to go nice and slow for the first layer, which has the carbon fiber imprint in it, and the Elegoo logo in it)
Speed : First layer infill: 90mm/s (or 100mm/s)
Speed : Initial layer travel speed: 50 mm/s or %
Speed : Number of slow layers: 4
Speed : Other layers speed: 90 mm/s for all of the rest of the settings, other than “Small perimeters” which is 50 mm/s or % (the default), and “Small perimeters threshold” (the default)
Acceleration : The “Acceleration” settings are using the defaults.
No Supports (there are 2 x built in supports on the model but no need to enable Supports as a slicer option), No Brim, No raft. I would enable “Auto Bed Leveling” before printing since the tolerances are very tight, and clean the plate really good otherwise the carbon pattern may have defects/splotches on the first bottom layer.

Note: The embossed Elegoo Logo that the author implemented will not orient in the correct “way” that Elegoo intended for their own logo, once you do get this make screwed in to the spool holder recess on the ECC; no matter how you orient the “V2” cap it won't show the logo completely horizontally for the figure eight style logo, which it needs to be able to do (I wasn't able to correct that about the original “V2” make either), so in that case the embossed Elegoo Logo will always look somewhat sideways once fully screwed in to the printer; it would be cool to fix that, if someone can remix it again or message me and I will replace the file here once I test it, for that logo orientation. I could only provide the remixed .3mf file, to open in a compatible slicer app (OrcaSlicer/ElegooSlicer, etc.), as exporting that to a .stl file using OrcaSlicer 2.3.0 resulted in a warning that not all objects could export, which resulted in the loss of the Elegoo logo on the bottom of the make in the .stl file, which is not optimal, so I have to skip uploading the .stl file for now; maybe someone else can figure out how to do that properly.

!!!Warning!!!: This model as well as the original has 2 x built in print in place supports on it, in the ring section, that will print with the make, without you enabling Supports in the your slicer app, and after printing this you will 100% need to remove the two built in supports by hand (easily) in order for this part to fit into the recess, let alone be able to actually turn it, so don't be frustrated there, it just needs you to pull the two “pull tab” pieces off of the print once it is off of your print bed, which is easy enough to do. You don't need to enable Supports in your slicer for this make to have those 2 x built in supports on it, just to be clear there!