Alternative Mount for GL.iNet Comet KVM ATX Power Control Board (GL-ATXPC)

Overview

This model is an alternative mount for the ATX Power Control Board (GL-ATXPC) for the GL.iNet Comet KVM (GL-RM1). The official mount connects to an expansion slot cover and so must fit side-by-side with PCIe expansion cards even though it isn't a PCIe card.

This alternative mount allows the control board to be installed anywhere inside the chassis using adhesive, freeing up expansion slot space. An unused expansion slot cover is still used to allow the USB cable to connect back to the KVM externally to the system. But, it won't otherwise require any space alongside expansion cards, which can be helpful in some systems where the official bracket doesn't fit or the power board conflicts with any of the PCIe cards.

Background

I've run a home server for a while using my previous desktop system but have never used a KVM for remote access. I've been generally pretty happy with GL.iNet products I've used, so when they announced the Comet KVM I decided to try it, especially since it had the power board accessory allowing the controlled system to be powered on and off or restarted remotely.

The KVM and the accessory board themselves both work well as advertised, but the full-size mounting bracket included with the board has an oddly shaped tab at the bottom and seems to be taller than a standard bracket. Whatever the reason, it just doesn't fit in the case for the system I was trying to install it in. Additionally, even if it did fit, space in the expansion bay is tight and there is no way that I could install it that won't also displace at least one of the PCIe cards I am using, even though there are unused slots in the chassis itself.

I've also recently obtained my first 3D printer and have wanted to try my hand at some simple CAD work. I decided this would be a good first project and this model was the result.

Installation

The GL-ATXPC board should slide into the printed base. Insert the board USB-C connector end first until it contacts the rear stop tabs. There are screw holes in the base that match the PCB and should accept the screws included with the board -- originally intended to secure it to the included slot cover mount. The printed base is then intended to be connected somewhere inside the chassis using adhesive.

The slot cover has an opening large enough to pass a USB-C cable head through, so you can thread the cable through this slot cover and connect it to the PCB normally. Finally, the cap can be fitted around the USB cable and then snapped into place on the slot cover to fill the excess space in the opening and keep things a little tidier.

Printing

I'm fairly new to 3D printing so I just used PLA filament on a Bambu Lab A1 Mini printer and I'm pleased with the results.