Kabrio fingertip mouse mod for VXE R1 (all versions)

This is a fingertip mod for the VXE R1 and its versions. The weight comes in at 26 g when printed in PLA using my settings. Please let me know if you have issues with the mod, so I can fix the design.

My hand size is 18x10cm and I use an aggressive fingertip grip.

Compatibility:

Personally I have tried R1, R1pro and R1S, which work well. The R1SE version has been tested by a community member. The only version which I don't know if it works yet is the R1N.

Configurations:

Select the file for your mouse model. The NH versions don't have holes in the grips, if you prefer that.

BOM

mouse https://www.atk.store/products/vxe-dragonfly-r1-series-wireless-mouse?variant=44857375457498

• The R1 and R1 pro are the lightest

dot skates https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005012062291336.html

double sided tape for the battery https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006926453576.html

grip tape https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005883765116.html

• You might be able to cut it out of the included grip tape.

Print settings

I've included a .3mf file with my preferred print settings. I optimized a lot of settings, so I recommend looking at it. It includes models for all versions.

Material: PLA (ASA/ABS can be used to save weight)

Layer height: 0.12 mm

Wall loops: 1

Top shell layers: 4

Bottom shell layers: 3

Top, bottom, solid infill pattern: Concentric

Wall generator: Arachne

Infill: 1% lightning (Basically removes sparse infill but keeps the internal solid infill)

Minimum sparse infill threshold: 2 mm2

Ensure vertical shell thickness: None

Speed and acceleration: Keep it low for high quality (I use 50 mm/s 1000 mm/s2

Retraction: Reduce length if you see holes especially on the paddles

!SUPPORTS IMPORTANT!

Type: Tree (manual) - Paint it only on the underside of the mouse buttons, the rest can be bridged

Top z distance: 0

Assembly instructions

1. Print the body

2. Use the support tool provided to remove the button blocks while holding the shell by the paddle. The three dots on the tool should be facing up. You usually don't need to remove the supports prior to this step. The scroll wheel blocks are not important and can be broken off using pliers or fingers.

It should look like this:

3. Disassemble the mouse and remove the battery, PCB, side buttons PCB and the scroll wheel

4. Slide in the pcb and screw it in. It might not go in smoothly. Especially around the thumb area. Just carefully bend the body a little bit and it should go in. Insert the scroll wheel if you want to use it.

5. Test the fit, buttons and overall if you like it and proceed if you do :)

6. Stick the batter on top of the sennsor using the double sided tape and connect it to the PCB.

7. Slide in the 3D printed side buttons. You might need to clean the holes with an xacto knife if they don't go in. Screw in the side buttons PCB. Connect the ribbon cable from the side buttons PCB to the main PCB

8. Cut out grip tape by pressing the guide on the grip tape and going around it with an xacto knife. (index and middle finger use the same).

9. Stick on the grip tape

10. Stick on 4 dot skates under the 2 buttons, thumb and pinky (red circles). Optionally you can stick on 5 more (blue circles) if the mouse is rubbing on the mousepad.

11. Let me know how you like it ;-)

Versions:

V3_17_2:

• the shape of the mod remains unchanged

• added support for most versions

  • The R1 pro has different screw positions and the battery connector obstructed the side buttons

  • The R1SE has different antenna geometry and back of the PCB

• added a tool for easier and more reliable button blocks removal

V3_17:

Adapted the Kabrio mod for the VXE R1.

The R1 PCB is heavier and uses a larger battery. This mod is heavier by 6 g because of that. The scroll wheel is higher, which forced the paddles to be also higher. This increases the click height by a couple of millimeters. The battery being larger means that it doesn't fit under the PCB, so the spring mechanism cannot be used. The ring grip had to be reinforced, because the antenna is in the way of the ribs.

On the flip side, I managed to learn some new stuff and improved it a little bit. The button blocks geometry is now more reliable at breaking at the correct layer. The whole side button section can be printed without supports and usually doesn't need any post processing. I also adjusted the thumb grip to be way stiffer. I might make a small update for the MAD R including these improvements.