~1/4 Scale ACA P-50/T-135AC Siren

⚠(DISCLAIMER)⚠ MY MODELS ARE PUBLISHED UNDER THE CC BY-NC-SA 4.0 LICENSE: https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-sa/4.0/

You are welcome to download, print, share, and remix all my designs with credit, but you may not sell any of my files, prints, or remixes to make a profit. Please respect the time and effort I put into all of my designs and if I will take action against them being sold for profit. Thank you!

(One of MossyMav8802's sirens is at the beginning of this video but the P-50 comes after)

This is by far the biggest and most detailed project I have EVER made. It's taken around a year to complete and I hope you all will love it as much as I do!! It is also (to this day) my most meaningful and favorite project I've ever worked on.

I'd like to thank Demetrius P, nascarsimracing1, and uwtitanfan for providing me some amazing photos, measurements, and information!

AND I'D LIKE TO THANK DEMETRIUS SO MUCH FOR TRACING MY HORN AS WELL AS REMASTERING/FIXING MANY OTHER PARTS IN FUSION!!! I seriously can't thank him enough for all the time he put into this project. I'm so grateful he was willing to help out and make this thing look even better. He's also the only reason it actually gets up to proper speed since he came up with the idea of restricting the ports on the stator. 

Another HUGE thanks goes to my friend Ethan. I gave him the files early for this whole project and as I was building my mini Kenosha, he was building a mini Morrison along with me (All first gen Morrison P-50 photos are from him!!)

 He was a huge help to me since he found some flaws and issues with the design that I needed to fix. It's also just a pretty complex model in general so I'm very grateful he was willing to put the time and effort into it (especially in early access!!)

Remember that just like all the other things I build, this model needs to be handled with care. It can be fragile in certain places and it's important that you don't accidentally mistreat it (the tutorial video will go over most of that)

Also, THIS MODEL IS NOT WEATHERPROOF!!

Yes, you can take it outside but it is not water resistant and water WILL get into the motor and destroy it. I may make a waterproof motor cover in the future but not for a little while. PLEASE do not try to mount the siren outside!!!

TUTORIAL VIDEO:

PLEASE NOTE!

This tutorial video was made BEFORE the revamp and there are a decent bit of new things you should know in addition to all the information in the tutorial video!!

With the addition of rotor weights, those should also be placed in in a similar way to the weights on the weight pack. Put a little bit of super glue in the holes for the weights and press the weights in with the beveled side facing up. They should just slide in with minimal friction but have a hammer on hand if you need to smack them down. I will also mention that although there is a plastic weight option for the rotor, I HIGHLY recommend getting the weights. They're not stupidly expensive and your wind up and wind-down will NOT going to be close to accurate without the rotor weights. 

You may notice the horn ring is in a little bit of a different shape. The process of welding it is exactly the same as before, the model just looks a little different. 

The anti-rotator lean pieces are now removed. The siren itself is already stupidly back heavy and while it was a valid concern when I originally created the P-50 to use a DC motor, the Samsung and all the extra rotor weights make it very back heavy. So don't worry about the anti-rotator lean pieces.

The rotator motor shouldn't need hot glue anymore. It now has an extra plastic support in the base that keeps the motor from rocking back and fourth. This is still dependent on how well you sand your rotator tubes, you can have issues if they're too tight even with the motor being very secure in place. 

For installing the eyebolt, there is one extra large hole on one of the horn ring sections. That is for your M5 insert. Once you get the insert in, assemble the full siren how you would normally. Then, screw in your eyebolt from the top once everything is assembled. The eyebolt should be the last piece that goes onto the head of the siren from the top. One of the holes on the horn will also have to be manually drilled out in order to fit the size of the eyebolt.

You also will NOT have to do any of the horn ring rotation stuff I mentioned to restrict the ports. The ports on the actual stator piece are now restricted so you'll want to just place them at the backs of each port on the horn ring (just like a real P-50)

All the holes on the back cone actually line up as well. I was wrong when I said it was due to plastic warping. It was actually an issue with the model. I'd still highly recommend drilling out all the holes since it makes putting the bolts in a lot easier since they can still be a tiny bit misaligned sometimes.

You can also pick up the siren by the eyebolt if you wish!! I wouldn't recommend doing it with your fingers though, you run the risk of it slipping out easily since the eyebolt is hard to get a firm grip on. If you want to carry it by the eyebolt, use a lanyard or some kind or strap/harness with a hook and scoop it up with that!

The revamp has a lot more changes to it but that's mostly just to make the models look a bit nicer. The assembly process will stay the exact same!

PARTS LIST:

Any Samsung 29 microwave blower motor (except 29c & 29j) [FIND ON EBAY]

Rotator motor: https://www.amazon.com/BRINGSMART-35kg-cm-Self-locking-Reversed-Rotating/dp/B07F8WDFZV/

Capacitor: https://www.amazon.com/HQRP-Capacitor-Harbor-Ceiling-Coaster/dp/B01B4MF7V4/

Slip ring: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XHRC14L/

Thrust bearing: https://www.amazon.com/FOCMKEAS-AXK4060-Bearings-Thickness-Industry/dp/B0CY5Q7KR9/

Shaft coupler (ROTATOR): https://www.amazon.com/Coupling-Connector-Coupler-Accessory-Fittings/dp/B08335MYGW/

Shaft coupler (CHOPPER): https://www.amazon.com/ZYCST-Aluminium-Coupling-Connector-Airplane/dp/B07QQM831T/

Dowels (ORDER 40 TOTAL): https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Stainless-Cylindrical-Support-Elements/dp/B0F3JLHS13/

Threaded M3 inserts: https://a.co/d/2afIMeJ

Hardware kit https://www.amazon.com/Machine-Assorted-Assortment-Stainless-Threaded/dp/B0DFWYBJJJ/

Rotor Weights: https://www.amazon.com/QWORK-Slotted-Chromium-Plated-Metal-Weights/dp/B0BCK1Z7JB/ref

M5 Eyebolts: https://www.amazon.com/PATIKIL-M5x30mm-Threaded-Eyebolt-Securing/dp/B0DWWZ6R91/ref

M5 Inserts: https://www.amazon.com/ruthex-Threaded-Insert-Pieces-Ultrasound/dp/B07YSVXWS8/ref

Milwaukee Courthouse mount link: (If you're doing this one)

The reason this is separate is so you can stretch the mount to the size of whatever surface you're mounting the siren onto!

https://www.tinkercad.com/things/gZNTUKbnn3j-courthouse-mount