DO NOT ATTEMPT if you are not comfortable with possible death from electrocution! I am not responsible for your injury/death or associated fires from attempting to wire high voltage electronics!

I am not going to provide a write up of how to wire/assembly the 110v to 12v converter using a detent switch, if you are not familiar with house electrical you should be extremely cautious messing with stuff like this. i am just going to provide an overall description of how everything works:

the top lid of the 110v to 12v converter is removed and line voltage wires cut, soldered to the switch to cut off all in coming power to the unit. line power is fed to the 110v fan after the switch and the fan bolts to the outside of the 3d printed replacement cover of the converter (i provided a 3d file that should bolt right up to the bottom half of the converter along with the file to edit the cover if needed as its not perfect) the amp, dsp, buck converter all fit into the top half of the 3d printed cover on the sides of the amp. i provided a terminal cup file that bolts right to the back of the existing Crystals speaker. you will need the 1000uF capacitor across the output of the buck converter in order to reduce noise interference. i have provided a file for the dsp used with SigmaStudios that performs decently well on this speaker configuration but I have not used a calibrated microphone to verify its output cuz im lazy. feel free to modify the crossover/tweeter levels to your liking. another note you should get some PC thermal paste and remove the heat sink off the amp, apply heat sink paste to the chip in the center and re-install the heat sink. this is absolutely needed as this amp does run hot but performs extremely well after adding thermal paste and a fan. I do not have a set of these speakers running passively but they do get extremely loud and satisfy my needs for a reliable pair of desk speakers i can repair if needed as these electronics are commonly available.