Microfreak Split-Body

As a warning, this CAN fry the keyboards controls if you mess up the cables.  It's not entirely safe, and exposed pogo pins on the body are not a wise decision by me either (I am working on a cover now)

You will need:

• 2x 1mm pitch 16 pin FPC breakout boards
• 1x set of 16 pin pogo connectors (90 degree pins)
• 2x 16 pin 1mm pitch fpc cable forward direction(meaning pins are on the same side)
• M2 heat inserts (3-5 mm should be fine)
• M2 countersunk screws
• M5 nuts and bolts for the body

STEP 1: Solder the pogo connectors:

For the pogo connectors, the “female” side (larger of the 2) goes to the body of the microfreak with the FPC connector facing UP and pogo connector facing UP.  

The smaller “male” side goes with the keyboard with the pogo pins facing UP and FPC connector facing DOWN

This is very important.  If you have questions, ask before doing.

This will make sure your pins are properly mapped, but do check before you plug it back in or you may fry something.  The reason we flip one of the boards is otherwise every even and odd pin would swap (1 ←>2, 3←> 4, etc), technically either way would work but flipping the male side means we can use forward instead of reverse cables.  When plugging the FPC cables into the board you should NOT need to twist them, they should go in without needing any rotating.  If you need to rotate a cable, something is wrong.

STEP 2: Assemble the body

Remove all screws from the bottom of the microfreak.  Carefully lift off the body, making sure not to rip out the fpc cable that is already in there.  You should be able to just pull it out without much force. 

Bolt the 2 printed body pieces together with 2 M5 bolts  Plug in the female (large) pogo connector to this side with a short 5-10 cm FPC cable, remember there should be NO twisting.  Now screw the pogo connector directly into the case with 2 6mm M2 screws (no inserts).  Once it is in, place the body over the top of it making sure not to pinch the cable.  You should then be able to easily screw it in from underneath using the same screws it came with.

STEP 3: Assemble the Keyboard

When taking the keyboard off of the original body, make sure to remove the 3 screws on the top side of the board as well.  Sometimes the keyboard takes some shimmying to get lose, but DO NOT FORCE IT.  You may break the pcb.

Bolt the 2 printed keyboard pieces together with 2 M5 nuts and bolts.  use M2 heat inserts in 6 holes in the back of keyboard body.  Plug in the male (small) pogo connector to this side with a short 5-10cm FPC cable (again NO twisting).  It is easier to mount the keyboard first (with the  pogo connector dangling OUTSIDE of the body).  Screw in the body from underneath with the same screws it used in the original body, then screw it in on the top.  Now screw in the pogo connector into the 2 holes near the gap in the body.  

Now finally screw the hood into the 4 remaining holes, using the stands you can now check that alignment is good.  If it is not, you may have not put in the heat inserts perfect.  In which case you can just heat them back up and shimmy them somewhere better.