Badminton Shuttle Humidifier (Humidome)

This shuttle humidifier is designed to be inserted into the bottom of a shuttle tube, using water beads (available online) to help maintain humidity levels in the tube, which helps maintain the condition and extend the life of feather shuttles. When installed, it sticks out of the tube by about 12mm (1/2in), and

There are two versions to choose from, one using holes and one using modifier volumes. Both can be printed without supports and should need minimal post-processing. There is no functional difference between the two versions, though the modifier version has had more effort put into it.

• Modifier version - uses volumes modifiers to allow air/water flow 
  • faster to print, uses less filament, specific infill settings for modifier volumes required
• Hole version - has holes
  • slower to print, uses more filament, infill settings don't affect the function, easier to slice

Usage

The water beads need to be soaked for the humidifier to work; adding the beads dry is easier as the soaked water beads are both slippery and bouncy, making them tricky to handle, but this can be done before or after putting the beads into the humidifier.

With the Insert (cone shaped part) pointing down, put 6-8 water beads (dry or soaked) inside the cup, they should sit around the outside of the central dome, then place the base on top and screw together until snug (when the two parts meet). It should be easy to screw and unscrew the two halves.

To recharge the humidifier, place it into a container (bowl, cup, sink, etc.) then fill with enough water completely cover the humidifier and leave overnight. Once the beads are fully soaked they should have expanded to hold themselves in place, so there should be no noise when shaken - this also means the beads don't get ground down while rolling around.

Re-soak as necessary (take out of the tube first!); roughly once every 2-4 weeks depending on your climate, or if you can hear the beads moving when shaken.

Printing

The included 3mf files have various settings  changed from default to minimise post-processing, the most important ones for printing are below in case you want to work from the base stp files.

Both Base and Insert should be printed with the threads on top (Base correct way up, Insert upside down)

Hole version - use the included 3mf or slice the stp file with your preferred slicer and/or settings.

Modifier version - use the included 3mf, or slice the stp files using your preferred slicer; the modifiers for both base and insert should be overlaid exactly on the respective part ( e.g. base modifier on base), and should use the settings below - other settings may work but these are confirmed over several prototypes:

• Modifier Infill - must be gyroid 20% (or other 3D free-flowing, with density high enough to prevent water beads from entering)
• Modifier Perimeters -  zero perimeters, zero top/bottom layers