Begode ET Max kickstand frame

The model is made based on the original file from Begode themselves, so it has the same size and clearance as the stock kickstand. The point of this model is for it to be much more sturdy than stock and have a design that actually fits the wheel.

The design was ofc inspired by the Begode Blitz.

I have not yet tested it for high impact resistance, like in an event of a crash, but it does hold up well and not break if I let the wheel drop on the kickstand (e.g., let it park itself). No signs of cracks or fatigue yet. The main failure points are the mounting points, both at the “bridge” (where the rubber feet are) and the battery boxes. If the “bridge” mount breaks, I will reinforce that part, but if the battery box mount rips off, the only thing I can recommend is increasing the wall thickness in that part.

As of mounting, use the same screws for mounting the “bridge” as before (that part of the kickstand was not touched at all), but for attaching to the wheel, I recommend long 3.9mm wood screws. Drill the holes out a tiny bit so the screws go in easier, and then screw them in with a continuous back-and-forth motion, as in “screw in, screw out a bit less, repeat until fully in”. The point is for the screws to melt the plastic inside and not crack open the mounting points from the inside. Ideally, use a small drill to be able to screw in and out the screws faster and generate more heat from that.

For printing, I recommend using either PETG or ASA, whichever you have or want. I used PETG for mine as I didn't have anything else, but ASA should be better. I used a 0.4mm nozzle heated to 240 °C with a wall thickness of 6 and a 33% triangle infill. As for orientation, you can put it face down to minimize supports, or face up to make the outside of the part look better, depending on what you want. Also, keep in mind that you can ONLY print it flat, no placing on the sides or vertically. The only reason for that is so that all the stress is on the layers themselves, not the bond between layers. It's always better to rely on the material strength itself rather than layer adhesion.

There are two variants of the model, one with cutouts in the battery box attachment plane, one without. Later, the one without cutouts will be edited to also not have the cutouts on the inside of the kickstand. The point is, you can choose either the one without cutouts and be done with it, or the one with and spend a bit more time in the slicer to make the wall thickness of cutouts smaller, so there are actually some weight savings. I recommend adding a slight bit of fuzzy skin to conceal the layer lines, if you're into that, but not too much so that it looks funny (trust me, stock fuzzy skin settings in Orca are WAY too much for this, tone it down a lot). I recommend stretching out the fuzzy skin “steps” and decreasing the amplitude a tiny bit.