Mains-powered kWeld Lithium battery spot welder case (for kWeld, kCap & kSupply)

From CederB's Description:

The kWeld from Keenlab is an excellent battery spot welder, especially as a desktop unit with the accompanying ultracapacitor bank kCap, the power supply module kSupply, and a compatible server power supply. But I couldn't find any good printable cases, 

I found CederB's design and really liked it, but it is too big for my CORE One. I am relatively inexperienced in 3D modeling and printing but this has been a fun project to learn from. Thanks for checking this out and I hope it works for you!

Hardware, components & supplies:

• (1x) Noctua NF-F12 fan [ASIN: B00650P2ZC]
• (1x) 120mm Black Grille for fan [ASIN: B07VCNLQZD]
• (1x) HP HSTNS-PR01 power supply [used, eBay]
• (47x) Ruthex M3 heat-set inserts [ASIN: B08BCRZZS3]
• (4x) M3x30 black SHCS with (4x) M3 washer to attach fan & grille [ASIN: B0CDSHT6GZ]
• (16x) M3x6 black flat head hex drive screws (top  & left/right joint)
  • All M3 flat head screws are from a kit [ASIN: B073J4CRZV]
• (5x) M3x8 black flat head hex drive screws (left side of enclosure)
• (4x) M3x10 black flat head hex drive screws (rubber feet)
• (2x) M3x12 black flat head hex drive screws (kSupply support bracket)
• (16x) M3x6 button hex head screws (PCBs to enclosure)
  • [ 91239a111 @McMaster]
• (1x) Lighted pushbutton switch [ASIN: B0CQ421KVZ]
  • I did not use the wiring harness that comes with the pushbutton
• (1x) jack [Switchcraft 142AX @DigiKey]
• (1x) plug [Switchcraft 750 @DigiKey]
• (4x) rubber bumper feet [Keystone 722 @DigiKey]
• Misc wire, ferrules and ring terminals for internal hookup of switch & jack. 
• CA gel glue to attach nameplate

Material Selection, Slicing & Printing Notes:

• I printed with Prusament Galaxy Black PLA at 15% infill using the .25mm BALANCED profile
• Except for the nameplate which is .20 BALANCED, 100% infill. 
  • The nameplate has a color change for the logo - this is designed to be easy even if you don't have an MMU. 
• The printer g-code preamble is modified to turn off the nozzle/bed heaters while homing to avoid Z-axis issues.
• I printed the TopLeft and Bottom Right components on a textured build plate (for aesthetics)
• Everything else was printed on a smooth build plate (for adhesion)

Wiring Notes:

• The power switch is connected to the kSupply terminal block per it's instructions
  • I soldered to the switch and crimped ferrules for the terminal block on kSupply
• The LED in the power switch is connected to the output of kSupply with ¼" ring lugs
  • I soldered to the switch and crimped ¼" ring terminals to connect to kCap input bolts.
• The jack for the footswitch includes an SPST switch and I wired it up so that when the plug is removed, the wires are connected together. Thus, if the unit is powered up without the foot switch attached, it will default to automatic mode.
• I shortened several of the 8AWG cables, so I purchased crimp terminals and a manual crimper. Remember to follow instructions regarding orientation of washers to prevent PCB damage.

Assembly Notes:

• It was difficult to tighten the nut on the back side of the pushbutton switch that I chose. So rather than find a different/better switch, I designed and printed a specialized “wrench”  to tighten the nut. I soldered the wires onto the switch terminals, then threaded the wires through the hole in the front of the enclosure, the dividing wall in the enclosure, the nut, and then the wrench (all in that order). Then I could insert the switch in the hole, maneuver the wrench+nut over the back of the pushbutton switch and spin to tighten the nut. Once the nut is tight, remove the wrench and re-route the wires back through the  front cavity to avoid interfering with the HP HSTNS power supply module.  It worked better than I expected.
• Take care when inserting the heat-set inserts in the holes where the left and right bottom components are joined. If you accidentally insert them too far, they can interfere with sliding the HP HSTNS power supply module in and out of the enclosure.
• When attaching the nameplate, don't get the CA glue close to the edge of the nameplate because fumes from the glue discolor nearby plastic.

Errata:

• The bottom left corner of the kWeld board is difficult to screw in to the case because the hole is covered by the display module. I didn't find a satisfactory solution for easily screwing that corner down.
• I allowed 0.15mm tolerance for the joint between the left and right bottom sections, but that ended up being a little bit tight. If I had to do it over, I might increase that to 0.25mm.

Safety Notes:

• As with any kCap/kWeld combination, when you finish using the unit, the kCap continues to hold a lot of energy, and it takes a long time to bleed off. Be careful.  No easy way to force kWeld PCB to power off.