PNV57A Lens Covers

So. As it happens. I acquired myself a set of PNV57a night vision goggles. Quite nice. Issue is that they were lacking an eye protector, and what would you know... It's quite an essential piece to have.

In general some of the older night vision models (particularly soviet) didn't have the best eye covers, and tended to get weaker over time. Of course, I took the opportunity to make some modern ones out of TPU. Included, there is SIX variants.

• A Solo eye cup
• A Solo eye cup with pinholes
• Dual eye cups
• Dual eye cups with pinholes
• Dual eye cups with a neat little thing hollowed out in the center that aid with flexibility if you want it
• The same thing as above but with pinholes again.

If you're unfamiliar. Night vision goggles should have their lenses covered generally as to prevent any damage. The pinhole versions are there if you want to ever use them at daytime... for whatever reason... But I'd never bothered with it personally. I had actually made myself a custom aperture setup but I won't be selling it because it used a design for the aperture off of grabcad and I don't believe in stealing.

These are specifically for PNV-57 (A)!!!!!

I can NOT confirm if they work on the 57 (E). I'll wager they don't, but I'm not in possession so I can't verify. The eyes look... Somewhat similar so you might be able to get away with scaling it up and trying it with the solo cups, but I don't know if I'd bother.

I'd happily accept a donation of a PNV-57E to develop for. :)

3D printing settings

These things generally need to flexible. TPU is best. I use Priline TPU but pretty much any of them should work.

Standard TPU settings of course. If you don't have direct drive, you're not completely out of the equation, but turn your retraction off and just gun it, otherwise you'll have jams.

For the per-part settings. I personally used five perimeters on them, however you can dump infill as low as you really can stand. Unless you modify top/bottom solid layers to also be more than ~4, you'll have the standard smooth finish issues. But personally I ran infill around ~25%. This will vary results depending on what type of TPU you use. (Or if you're using it at all..?)

Make sure print orientation has the big flat faces as the floor. Scaling and all that should be perfect if your printer is dialed in.

Combo-Covers will take ~1 hour to make, and use up ~15g of filament.

Solo covers will take ~20 minutes each, and ~5g each.

I have not PERSONALLY tested it. But you can likely use regular PLA(+?), or other stiffer materials for that matter, with the solo eyecups. The Combo covers rely on the elasticity a bit more to REALLY hold in place and never move. Best snug fit I can get without it wearing paint unnecessarily.So. As it happens. I acquired myself a set of PNV57a night vision goggles. Quite nice. Issue is that they were lacking an eye protector, and what would you know... It's quite an essential piece to have.

In general some of the older night vision models (particularly soviet) didn't have the best eye covers, and tended to get weaker over time. Of course, I took the opportunity to make some modern ones out of TPU. Included, there is SIX variants.

• A Solo eye cup
• A Solo eye cup with pinholes
• Dual eye cups
• Dual eye cups with pinholes
• Dual eye cups with a neat little thing hollowed out in the center that aid with flexibility if you want it
• The same thing as above but with pinholes again.

If you're unfamiliar. Night vision goggles should have their lenses covered generally as to prevent any damage. The pinhole versions are there if you want to ever use them at daytime... for whatever reason... But I'd never bothered with it personally. I had actually made myself a custom aperture setup but I won't be selling it because it used a design for the aperture off of grabcad and I don't believe in stealing.

These are specifically for PNV-57 (A)!!!!!

I can NOT confirm if they work on the 57 (E). I'll wager they don't, but I'm not in possession so I can't verify. The eyes look... Somewhat similar so you might be able to get away with scaling it up and trying it with the solo cups, but I don't know if I'd bother.

I'd happily accept a donation of a PNV-57E to develop for. :)

3D printing settings

These things generally need to flexible. TPU is best. I use Priline TPU but pretty much any of them should work.

Standard TPU settings of course. If you don't have direct drive, you're not completely out of the equation, but turn your retraction off and just gun it, otherwise you'll have jams.

For the per-part settings. I personally used five perimeters on them, however you can dump infill as low as you really can stand. Unless you modify top/bottom solid layers to also be more than ~4, you'll have the standard smooth finish issues. But personally I ran infill around ~25%. This will vary results depending on what type of TPU you use. (Or if you're using it at all..?)

Make sure print orientation has the big flat faces as the floor. Scaling and all that should be perfect if your printer is dialed in.

Combo-Covers will take ~1 hour to make, and use up ~15g of filament.

Solo covers will take ~20 minutes each, and ~5g each.

I have not PERSONALLY tested it. But you can likely use regular PLA(+?), or other stiffer materials for that matter, with the solo eyecups. The Combo covers rely on the elasticity a bit more to REALLY hold in place and never move. Best snug fit I can get without it wearing paint unnecessarily.