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fidget gear ring with matching knurling — zdjęcie 1
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fidget gear ring with matching knurling

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a print-in-place herringbone planetary gear ring with a knurling that matches the gear design

Ocena
4,429 / 5
Polubienia
45
Pobrania
517
Wydruki
6
Wyświetlenia
1643
Oceny
7

Aktualizacja u źródła:

Informacje o modelu

Źródło
Printables
Licencja
Standard Digital File License

Yet another knurling for my gear ring. Since the 5-toothed, 3-toothed and 2-toothed gear rings had a knurling matching the gear design, I wanted to have that for this 4-toothed gear ring, too. For me, this is now the official knurling for the 4-toothed gear ring. This model is part of a mini series of fidget gear rings with 1- to 5-toothed planet gears with matching knurling patterns (in here).

Other fidget gear rings are available here.

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Printing: 

The 3mf files are split into 5 parts for multi-color printing. 

  1. the sun gear (inner ring)

  2. the main parts of the planet gears

  3. the upper 0.38mm (two layers) of the planet gears

  4. the lower 0.38mm (two layers) of the planet gears

  5. the outer ring gear

If you choose a different color for only parts 3 and 4, only 4 color changes are required, resulting in low filament waste with single-nozzle multi-color printers. Color changes can also be done manually (see here).

General settings:

  • I use 0.4mm nozzle and 0.17mm layer height

  • random seam placement

  • a bit of elephant foot compensation (say 0.2mm)

  • I prefer NOT only one perimeter/wall on top layer

  • 3 walls

  • I also usually paint seams on the inside into one of the turn tool slots.

  • Good bed adhesion is essential due to the small footprint.

This model requires a well dialed-in printer and filament combination; depending on these and the settings, the gears may

  • rotate freely and quite smoothly right from the plate,

  • need some force to break free,

  • need some minutes of breaking in to run smoothly,

  • be totally fused together.

If you have problems with fused gears, you can try:

  • using force; if it breaks it wasn't usable anyway.

  • a different filament; some (like silk) are more prone to ooze and fuse than others.

  • reducing the extrusion multiplier/flow ratio a bit

  • a slightly negative XY size compensation (e.g. -0.02)
    (OrcaSlicer: negative for contour, positive for holes)

  • printing outer walls first

  • reducing acceleration and speed

  • reducing the temperature

You can support me on ko-fi.

Have fun!