Centauri Carbon 7.5 mm Panel Spacer with Wire Relief for Chamber Heater (Creality)

Before you print, please read everything below carefully...

What:

Based off of SE3Ds 7.5 mm panel spacer, I modified one of the lower pieces to have two wire relief holes to be able to route a creality chamber heater inside the printer. If you already printed the spacers, all you need to print is the one STL. And replace the lower right hand corner piece with it. 
 

It turned out perfectly. The chamber heater is super easy to route and it’s very stable with the wires holding it in place. Very happy with the result!

Printing and Assembly:

I have the full spacer set or single STL available to reprint and swap with the ECC-Panel-Spacer - H-Mirror-MF part. 

READ ME !! DESCISION TREE!!

IF --> You have 7.5mm Spacers already printed from SE3D design

• Print just the single piece with a cutout

  • Either from .3mf file or individual STL

    • IF --> Standalone STL --> angle it at 45 on the flat, chamfered edge, so cutout rises at 45 deg angle

    • IF --> .3mf file --> disable all other pieces except for cutout piece

IF --> You have NO Spacers printed

• Print all spacers shown in one of the .3mf files (should be able to open in Orca, Bambu studio or PrusaSlicer)

• Keep Orientation for cutout piece - it needs to print at a 45 deg angle due to overhangs.

MORE PRINT INSTRUCTIONS

BEFORE YOU PRINT - Check your slicer settings!

• Print SE3D PIECES with the flat side DOWN

  • the raised edge on one side (once assembled) is sized to fit recessed into the centauri carbon sheet metal opening. 

  • EXCEPT my piece - that needs to be at a 45 as shown in the .3mf file

• Ensure "Make Overhangs Printable" is not checked or selected

  • it will cause the square mating holes to be printed as a triangle, ruining (to be fair it is a part scrap) the mating interface

• Use best settings for overhangs and part form

  • I generally stick with Inner/Outer wall print order BEFORE infill for best overhang performance and form

Print the wire hole/relief spacer at a 45deg angle as in .3mf Orca 2.3.1 file, ideally with brim and maybe a few supports. I personally used PET-GF, 5 walls 15% gyroid infill.

The wire hole section needs to be 100% infill to not break.

Otherwise the basic print settings (nozzle size, infill, walls) really don't matter. You could even do 2 or 3 walls in all the other areas. I just like to have overengineered robust parts. 

Assembly

I used M3x12 button head cap screws (hex) to replace the stock ECC hardware, for the spacer kit, to fasten the side panel to the printer. A bit fiddly to support the spacers while you screw them in, but the screws go in easy enough. 

Notes: 

I did have the other inverse cutout piece at first with the new spacer (to fill the wire gaps). And even printed it from TPU. But I decided it was too fiddly and not worth the effort to install. I will add it in the 3D files if people want. It can probably be slipped in once everything is installed but not tightened down.