RaceBox Micro Battery and Charger Box

I thought I could save a few bucks on a RaceBox by printing my own housing and sure enough, I was able to. This cost me about $140, $60 cheaper than the RaceBox Mini.

The box has space for a little USB-C charger board, an 18350 battery, as well as a ¼" standard camera threaded insert in the bottom. The original RaceBox Micro case acts as the lid. The main downside to this, is that I did not think to add an on/off switch, so it's always on. I might in the future but, more likely, I'll just keep it on the charger when not in use so it's ready to go when I want to use it. The 18350 battery should power it for a long time.

Parts:

• RaceBox Micro
• 18350 Lithium Battery
• ¼" threaded insert
• USB-C 3.7V Battery Charger Board
• 22AWG wire

Assembly:

1. Install threaded insert (I didn't have the right attachment for my soldering iron, so I used a 3D printer nozzle as an interface).
2. Stuff the printed box with tissue or something, insert the circuit board and ensure it's where you want it to sit.
3. Dab some hot glue on the exposed back of the circuit board.
4. Place RaceBox Micro (in the original case) on top of box to adhere circuit board to RaceBox.
5. Solder it up, leaving a bit of extra wire, but not too much, space is tight.
6. Do a test install, remember how it went, then remove all components from the box.
7. Apply a liberal amount of hot glue to the bottom of the case and insert the battery, I also installed the racebox on top to ensure the battery was in the right location.
8. Use as much hot glue as you see fit to adhere the RaceBox Micro to the top of the box. Make sure to avoid the USB-C port. I basically potted the whole thing with hot glue. Not good for serviceability, but hey, I'm embracing my inner automotive engineer.

Print Info:

• I printed this in PETG at 100% infill with 0.15mm layers because it's so small, so I might as well print it in high quality. I would highly recommend PETG over PLA, as PLA can melt from Hot Glue.