Atgames Legends Ultimate ALU PC Speaker Adapter

Aside from configuring to boot directly to OneSauce, this is the best upgrade I have made to my ALU. If you have a set of decent PC speakers collecting dust, this is a must do project and can easily be completed in less than 30 minutes (not counting 3d printing).

Use this and less than $15 in audio components to replace the cheap 3.5" speakers in your Atgames Legends Ultimate. This design only has a flat face, which should fit most PC speakers but you may need to modify the model so it fits flush to your speaker. *You'll notice in the pics that my adapters aren't flat, I modified the model to fit perfectly to a set of Boston Acoustic speakers with a 70mm wide/125mm radius face. I used double-sided tape but would also recommend shoo-go or a similar product, which is non-permanent and can be removed if you want to reverse or re-purpose those speakers. If you go the double-side tape route, use a little Windex on the tape to give you time to adjust the speaker while mounting and ensure it is perfect.

Here are the parts I would recommend: "Ferrite Ring Core Black RFI EMI Noise Suppressor Cable Clip-20Pcs" "3.5mm Stereo Female to AV 3 Pin Screw Terminals Headphone Audio Converter Adapter" (TRS not TRSS)

I pre-drilled the 4 screw holes with a 9/64" (or 3.5mm) bit to ensure the OEM screws fit nicely.

Steps to install:

1. Remove power and ethernet cable from the back of ALU.
2. Remove the 6 screws holding the top back plate in place (CAREFUL, it can fall out and cables are connected to it!).
3. Remove the 2 internal power supply connections and ethernet connection from the back plate then remove back plate and set aside.
4. Cut speaker wire from OEM speakers (I used 10" of the OEM speaker wire in my setup).
5. Remove the 4 screws holding the speaker in place (CAREFUL, the speaker will just fall without tape or someone holding it for you)
6. Remove the speakers, speaker grills and mounting plates and set aside. 7, Pre-drill the 4 bolt holes of the adapter plate with a 9/64 or 3.5mm drill bit then test the OEM speaker screws for fitment.
7. Mount the speakers to the adapter first and then mount inside the ALU after the glue is dry or tape is set. *You may need someone to help hold the new speaker with adapter plate in place while you set the 1st couple of screws.
8. Wire up the OEM speaker wire to the TRS adapter and add ferrite noise suppressor to each set of speaker wires. -Cut and strip the end of the speaker wire, red goes into the corresponding L/R port of the adapter. Both black cables go to the ground port.
9. Hook up PC speaker set, turn on ALU power and test sound quality. *You can remove the power and ethernet assembly from the back plate and use it for testing without re-installing the back plate.
10. Set the ALU volume at 50% and then raise the volume/base of the speaker until you are happy with the sound level and bass. After this, the speaker volume controller can be hidden inside the ALU along with the subwoofer. You should never need to touch it again. -If you hear static, it's because you're boosting the volume at the speaker too much. I got great audio by turning the speakers down to 10-15% and setting the ALU around 50%. It's much easier to manage volume directly from the ALU and I've got plenty of room to go in both directions (ALU set at 65% is really loud but sounds great with my setup).
11. When happy with sound quality, I recommend some basic cable management and using double side tape to mount PC speaker volume controller and other peripherals inside the ALU. There's a ton of space!

Both of the noise suppressors/ground loop isolators tested did NOT work. Don't waste your money on something like this. I found that putting the ferrite noise suppressor on each speaker wire helped.. a little. IMO, the 8$ spend was worth it and I have plenty of extras for future projects. The best way I found to remove all static was to simply turn the PC speakers way down and then use the ALU for volume control.

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