Power Rangers SPD Delta Blasters

Print Settings

• Wall loops: 2
• Layer Height: 0.2mm
• Infill: 3%
• Sparse infill pattern: Grid
  • I used Gyroid infill on the car_hood parts to help with the area around the trigger
• Support: Tree
• Brim Type: Mouse ear
  • I use an Outer Brim on the top_body_front to make sure the thinner areas upfront doesn't lift. Printing it by itself may also help.

When it comes the actual prop, the combined and split versions are different. When separated the front blaster (R02) has a slightly longer handle and a much smaller barrel slide. I styled the front blaster after the combined version. Overall it looks similar enough to the non-combined version and means it looks better when combined due to its size and not having to extend the back blaster (R01) an odd amount to account for a longer handle.

Printing Instructions

You can orient the parts however you want. Though they all have a flat surface to make it easier. Personally, there are only three parts that I oriented in a specific way. The front_rails for the car hood blaster (R02), I orient it so that the smaller flat side is touching the build plate. It cuts down on the amount of supports that are needed. The spoiler I orient on its back to avoid the need for supports. Finally, the top_body_back I orient so the inner face is touching the bed. It'll be on an angle, but it'll print without the need to add support for the area where the trigger guard rests in. It also makes post processing it easier as well.

Assembly

All links are non-affiliate

Parts list:

• 1 - M3x35 or M4x35 button head screws
  • I personally used M3 screws
• 3 - M3 or M4 washers
  • Place 2 under the head of the screw, and one under the nut
• 1 - M3 or M4 lock nut screw
  • It's important that you use a lock nut screw, otherwise the nut will work itself free and you'll need to tighten it more often
• 16 -  alignment_pin
  • Easy to scale down for your printer tolerances

The rims have some clearance on them that should allot for different types of screw heads. I only tested with button and socket head screws. The cut out for the top section of the car body blaster (R01) may feel like it's too small. It's meant to pop into place so apply a little pressure. Once the main bodies of the blasters are together there are a few things to take note of so…

MAKE SURE YOU READ THIS PART:

To support the combining gimmick, I had to make the slide rails pretty tight. I took this approach because it's easier to take away from a print than it is to add to it. If it's too tight for your printer then you'll need to file down the rails until you're able to slide them together and pull them apart to your liking. BE CAREFUL, the handle can feel like it's stuck. If that happens then it's better to screw it into the body of the front blaster (R02) to make sure you don't put too much pressure on the handle and snap it.

Length of front blaster (R-02): ~245 mm (~9.6 in) 

Length of back blaster (R-01): ~250 mm (~9.8 in) 

Length of combined blasters: ~402 mm (~15.8 in)

Tips for Post-processing

Be careful with the amount of filler primer you build up. The tolerances are tight all over the place. I'd put down some painters tape on the nub and socket that limits the swivel as well. I'd also recommend going light on the clear coat if you plan on using one. The part will rub, so the less there is to chew through the quicker you wear down the areas where rubbing will happen. Once you've finished painting and can comfortably combine them, then fidgeting with them a lot. You'll see what areas need touching up. I've been using acrylic paint for the touch ups. Printing the handle for the car body blaster (R01) in black filament may help as well. For sticking down the rim, I'm using double sided tape so that they're removable when needed. Two layers has been enough to give a good hold.