Jedi Holocron modded for tealight
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I really liked Badkitty's version of the Jedi Holocron (also credit to Hambone211 for the original side panels…
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- Creative Commons — Attribution — Noncommercial — Share Alike
I really liked Badkitty's version of the Jedi Holocron (also credit to Hambone211 for the original side panels modified by Badkitty!) with it's simple interlocking design, but for a little side project, I wanted to combine it with the really ingenious tealight adapter that MKotsamanes made for his Sith Holocron (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1194407).
From sketch to completion the modeling took all of a few minutes - now that I finally have the hang of using Fusion 360!
The whole design has been reduced from the original 10cm size down to 8cm, just because the tealights aren't too powerful, and it's more of a handholdable size for most people.
Additionally, since getting acrylic sheet in appropriate colours has become really difficult for some reason, I designed some simple 3D printable panel inserts that should be printed in your favourite translucent filament.
To make this, you'll need to print:
1x Base (choose from two versions, see below!) 1x Top 2x Side 1 2x Side 2 5x Panel insert
Regarding which base to choose:
80mm Jedi Holocron Base is the original, and is for a 37-38mm diameter tealight
The newer "Jedi Holocron Base 34mm hole" is for people using smalle tealights, as described in the next section. It will hold lights between 35-37mm in a nice firm grip.
And then you'll want to get yourself a standard LED tealight. Yes, an electronic one. DO NOT USE A REAL CANDLE! (The original design I made were for lights a hair under 38mm across, which were all the brands I had to test. Turns out there's people out there with smaller ones, so I added a new base for them. Both versions should ONLY EVER be used with LED tealights!)
Print Settings
Printer Brand:
Ultimaker
Printer:
Rafts:
No
Supports:
No
Resolution:
200 microns
Infill:
100%
Notes:
There aren't any fine details on the vertical plane, so resolution doesn't make a difference. What's important is to have a good clean surface to print on, as everything is orientated to print with the eventual outside laying flat on the bed.
I suggest printing the panel inserts with 100% infill or enough solid layers to make them solid. The top and sides are probably best built solid as well, but the base can have your preferred infill to save on material and make it lighter, if you wish.
Post-Printing
Cleaning up any strings and giving the outer pieces a quick coat of spray paint will really bring this model to life, but it should look presentable just glued together after printing, whichever you prefer.
Category: Props