Biqu E3D Revo Adapter for Sovol Zero / SV08 Max

I'm going to try the SV08 Microswiss high flow with cold-swappable nozzles for about the same price, as it's plug and play, doesn't require irreversibly modifying a hotend or shroud AND I'm losing confidence in this project being viable due to what seem to be quirks in how the offset between the eddy sensor and nozzle tip is handled.

I'll see if I can relocate the eddy sensor for the microswiss BUT the meltzone on the sv08max and zero is MUCH longer than on the microswiss, so it would need a similar adapter to this part, which defeats the purpose.

If you do wish to give it a shot...

Print settings used:

• Fiberology PA6-GF20 (or other hot+hard filament)

• 0.10mm layers

• 7 walls

• 75% Gyroid Infill

• Painted supports on horizontal flat overhangs only.

  • 0.15mm top+bottom support interface distance.

  • 2 interface layers top+bottom.

  • Pattern: rectilinear grid

CAVEATS

It may chew up your printbed AND I haven't found a good shorud solution that doesn't involve removing the print fan duct AND snipping the side off of the stock shroud.

config/printer.cfg changes

After installation, you MUST change the thermistor type from the stock value. The max temp on the Biqu hotend is 300C, so you should change that too.

RUN PID TUNING AFTER YOU CHANGE THIS

## ONLY CHANGE THESE 2 LINES in the extruder section
## Leave other lines AS THEY ARE
[extruder]
sensor_type: ATC Semitec 104NT-4-R025H42G
max_temp: 300

You must also change [z_offset_calibration].internal_endstop_offset to a LOWER value, as the nozzle is about 0.4-1mm LOWER than stock. I've received a scrape-free 9 minute benchy with -0.78

## ONLY CHANGE THIS 1 LINE in the z_offset_calibration section.

Leave other lines AS THEY ARE
[z_offset_calibration]
internal_endstop_offset: -0.78

I'm not sure if -0.78 is the best value for the internal_endstop_offset yet.

Required hardware:

• Biqu E3D Revo for X1C - I am using the Revo heater and thermistor

• Connectors are different. You can either splice the heater+thermistor plugs from the stock nozzle OR buy a bunch of connectors of different sizes according to the base model connector identifications

• SOME length of PTFE tubing…. I cut it to exact length by making the BOTTOM flush and then trimming the top to length with an X-acto knife and center-drill to taper it.

• 1x M2.5 screw recycled from stock hotend

• 2x M3xSOMETHING for the extruder attachment

• 3x M3 square nuts (2 high, and 1 low… the 1 that doesn't screw into the carriage's existing threaded insert)

• 1x M3xSOMETHING_LONGER for the bottom left hole

• SOME KIND of 2.5mm ID x 0.25mm wall tubing to let the Biqu hotend's M3 holes NOT flop around on the M2.5 screw at the bottom right

I thought it looked like an O.o face, so I put some cringe branding on it. (subject to change)