REMIX Artillery Genius/Pro BIQU H2 V2S Mount (Original Slotted/Wheel Rail) & "Leo" Duct
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BIQU H2 V2S Extruder Mount for Genius/Pro (X1/X2) & original slotted/wheel X-axis/Gantry & modified "Leo" parts duct.
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FreakyDude has made an excellent mount and fan duct(s) for use on the Artillery X1/X2/Genius/Pro and with the BIQU H2 Extruder using the (original) Volcano heatblock and nozzles. For my Genius Pro, I just made some minor tweaks to his "H2 Adapter SWX2" mount:
Cut a shallow channel in the "front" of the chimney for routing the parts cooling fan wires w/o having to go above or below the mount.
Squared up the angled part at the bottom of the chimney (allows sliding the ducts on the chimney instead of angle/'snap' on prior to installing the mount to the gantry plate).
For his "Leo" duct, I:
Shaved the bottom of the "Leo" duct so it can sit flat on the print bed in an upright orientation, instead of on its back.
This minimizes the need for supports (paint-on supports for the upper-front exhaust portion only) and gives a skosh more clearance between the nozzle tip and the bottom of the duct).
I also tweaked his "SWX2 PCB Adapter" by:
Inserting tori ("toruses") to the (3) PCB mounting holes, as my brass inserts are a smaller diameter.
All my mods were saved as OrcaSlicer "projects".
Love his concept of a parts fan mounted ABOVE the nozzle and extruder and using a chimney to direct the air down at the nozzle. His "Leo" duct is so good, my temperature tower sections (for PLA at least) all look great from 230°C to 190°C. His "Viper" duct is also good, but I think the "Leo" is better.
If you want to use the "Leo" duct with the stock Artillery mounting plate, you'll need to, either:
(Best) Reverse the bolt/nut on the bottom (eccentric) wheel as the default orientation has the nut interfering with duct body, or
Modify the duct body by 'notching' the one side of the duct.
I printed everything in MatterHackers Tough PLA+. Yes, even the parts duct; will eventually replace it with PCTG (better than PETG), but don't have any, yet. I put some reflective "heat" tape on the areas facing the heatblock. Right now, I'm only printing PLA, so with the fan blowing 100% (except for the first layer or two), it keeps it cool enough. I also printed four "spares" for when it finally does deform to the point of being unusable.