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gyro gear fidget — zdjęcie 1
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gyro gear fidget

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A combination of a herringbone planetary gear ring and some gimbal rings, print-in-place of course

Ocena
5 / 5
Polubienia
158
Pobrania
1087
Wydruki
4
Wyświetlenia
3014
Oceny
5

Aktualizacja u źródła:

Informacje o modelu

Źródło
Printables
Licencja
Standard Digital File License

Gear rings are nice fidget toys, and "gyro"/gimbal mount rings are nice fidget toys, so why not combine them? The gimbal mounts are so smooth, you can blow at them to bring the so quite some speed.

Other fidget gear rings are available here.

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Printing: 

The 3mf files are split into several parts for multi-color printing, especially for single nozzle multi-color printing with only 4 filament changes (and thus low waste) - that can even be done manually (see here). The shown print has a different color for these parts:

  • Parts 3 & 4 are bottom and top 2 layers of the planet gears, 

  • Parts 7 & 8, 10 & 11, and 13 & 14 are bottom & top 2 layers of the gimbal rings

General settings:

  • I use 0.4mm nozzle and 0.17mm layer height

  • random seam placement

  • a bit of elephant foot compensation (say 0.2mm)

  • I prefer NOT only one perimeter/wall on top layer

  • 3 walls

  • I also usually paint seams on the inside into one of the turn tool slots.

  • Good bed adhesion is essential due to the small footprint.

This model requires a well dialed-in printer and filament combination; depending on these and the settings, the gears may

  • rotate freely and quite smoothly right from the plate,

  • need some force to break free,

  • need some minutes of breaking in to run smoothly,

  • be totally fused together.

Note that while being a print-in-place model, the gimbal rings can be removed, which might be a good idea when breaking free the gear ring: Rotate outer ring perpendicular to the next inner ring, slightly press on it's sides (perpendicular to the pivots), slide inner parts out; reassemble accordingly.

If you have problems with fused gears, you can try:

  • using force; if it breaks it wasn't usable anyway.

  • a different filament; some (like silk) are more prone to ooze and fuse than others.

  • reducing the extrusion multiplier/flow ratio a bit

  • a slightly negative XY size compensation (e.g. -0.02)
    (OrcaSlicer: negative for contour, positive for holes)

  • printing outer walls first

  • reducing acceleration and speed

  • reducing the temperature

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Tagi