Centauri Carbon runice toothed idler blocks

New improved version out now!

What do these blocks do?

They allow the use of toothed idlers that will drastically reduce belt pitch vfa
Can reduce rattling noise on fast accelerations (seems to depend on material used for printing)
Easy servicability of belts and pulleys, to the point of being able to replace the belts without taking the frame apart.

Big thanks to Lamarc for helping with the aesthetics and functionnality!!

For fiber filled materials, 3-3.2mm and 8mm drill recommended! 

PRINT SETTINGS

• 4 walls

• 0.12mm layer height

• arachne wall generator

• seam position: aligned

• 0deg bridge orientation

• Print as oriented

• Clamp should be as solid as possible

• Print out of asa or similar, if you print it out of petg you won't be able to print high temp materials

BOM

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INSTRUCTIONS

Prepare the blocks and clamps:
Install the heatset inserts in the clamps

Screw in all the set screws to cut the threads into the blocks, make sure to go beyond where it will be and unscrew them back so that they don't interfere with the rods.

DO NOT DO THIS WITH THE BOTTOM LEFT SCREW ON THE RIGHT BLOCK
As it will rip out the damper and interfere with the rod. It will make noises like the stock blocks.

https://wiki.elegoo.com/Centauri-carbon/how-to-replace-the-timing-belt-of-the-print-head

follow up to step 13

remove belt tensionners or fully loosen the tensionners

remove those screws to loosen the bearing clamp:

Pull out the belts straight towards the back:

You can now remove the carriage and belts from the XY blocks.
Don't remove the belt further than the XY blocks to make reinstalling it easier.

Remove the side panels

Remove the 4 M3x4mm BHCS from the stock XY blocks and remove the metal plate securing the bearings

Gently slide out the bearing towards the back, to help this you can LIGHTLY press the block away, repeat on both sides

Finally twist out the X axis gantry

remove all the screws and plates from the blocks

Pull out one block and replace it with the new one, repeat on the other side insuring that the bearing stays on the rod at all times.

Align one block to the end of the X axis rods, the end of the rod is about at the same position as the M6 set screws on the outside.

Tighten the set screws on that side

Slide the other block inwards so that the rods stick out on one side

Install the tightened block on the bearing and slide on the clamp, fasten it with 2 M3x12mm SHCS

Push the other block towards the other bearing and clamp it down too. move the block a bit along the X axis to aviod having preload on the Y axis rods and tighten the set screws.

Now it's time to square the gantry, for that to work you need the bearings to be solidly clamped and the belt to not yet be installed.
Push the gantry to the front and check that both blocks hit at the same time.
If it doesn't adjust the set screws in order to correct for that angle.

Once the gantry is squared, install the belts back into the toolhead being sure that they aren't reversed or routed incorrectly. (this step can be complicated and is made easier by not having the pulleys installed)

I usually square the gantry with the grubs loose, then fully tighten the ones where there only is one grub, iirc bottom left and top right. and then tighten only one of the grubs on the other side (outer one). recheck squareness afterwards and use the innermost grubs to hone it in the final bit. the right one needs to have the shoulder screw installed first though. And to square the gantry i just grab the blocks and twist them.

Install the front pulleys which are toothed with the 25mm shoulder screw on the left and the 50mm shoulder screw on the right, making sure that the belt is run through them. Do not overtighten them as the pulleys won't be able to run smoothly

Repeat with the smooth idlers on the back side with the opposite lengths of the screws.

Now tension the belts, run input shaper and you should be good to go.
Keep in mind that this is my first attempt at the instructions so it might be a bit rough around the edges. keep an ear out for odd sounds and check the srew tightness occasionally.



v1.1 fixed 1mm size difference causing issues with cosmos firmware

v2 changed print orientation for better strength