Sovol Zero filament port steel ball guide
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Replaces the stock PTFE tube port with a rotating ball guide which removes some of the strain.
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As you might have noticed on the Sovol zero, the part of the reverse bowden that's inside the enclusure can get quite bended due to the rigid entrance point. While not a major issue most of the time, a more compliant path could prove beneficial, especially with more rigid filaments. I suspect that more force is need by the extruder to pull a filament that has to bend around. It should also reduce chances of filament breaking inside the tube.
This is a drop-in replacement for the current entrance port that uses an 8 mm diameter stainless steel bead with a 4 mm hole that fits the current bowden tube. This gives more degree of freedom to the tube.
BOM
Both printed halves of the port
The two original M3 x 16 mm screws that held the port
An 8 mm diameter steel ball with a 4 mm diameter hole. You can buy those online on Amazon or Ebay.
Assembly
Print boths parts in a suitable material. I did mine in PETG. You may need to resize the part by 1-2% to take in account the plastic contraction and have a good fit for the ball.
Test that the ball fits well when sandwiched between both printed halves. The side with the X should be facing the other half. the ball should rotate smoothly and not be easily pushed out of the assembly.
Glue both parts together with the ball in the middle making sure not to glue the ball itself.
Remove the ancien holder. Look up how pneumatic coupling works if you're unfamiliar.
Push the tube into the ball. It took me some effort to get the tip in, but after it slided easily.
Screw back the new holder and enjoy the increased freedom!
Design considerations
An 8 mm ball was chosen, as a larger ball would have a lesser curvature necessitating a thicker part to keep it in place, therefore reducing the degree of freedom of the ball and tube.
An X mark was placed on the side that need to be glued on one of the part as it wasn't oblivious just by visual inspection. (This makes me think that the parts could be designed to be keyed into each other for an easier alingment)
The part was designed to cover the hole in the steel pannel more than the original part, wich could result in a tight fit. The screw holes have been made wider to give some lateral play as I expect there could be some dimensional variation from one printer to another. Hopefully enough tolerances has been accounted to be compatible with your printer as well.
If you don't want to buy one of those steel balls, you might be able to print one, but I didn't try as I expect a better result with a steel one.
Tell me what you think of this part!