Snapmaker U1 - P1S hotend modification

First off: I do NOT advise trying this unless A) you are fairly mechanically inclined/crafty, and B) are ok with potentially boat anchoring your shiny fresh new U1 with no parts availability yet lol  parts are available now but still annoying lol

In my frustration of wanting to print abrasive materials and not having HS nozzles yet, decided to see if i could make my own solution. after some poking around, I found atleast the P1S shares a common bolting pattern, and roughly same heatsink dimensions as the U1.

The caveat? it needs the piece of copper mounted to the hotend for the internal inductive sensor to function. 

items needed: 

• ~2mm drill for the filament path through the copper (and something to make a chamfer too)

• Abrasives: either sandpaper, or dremel, or both to sand down the heatsink

• Means of cutting the copper: ie dremel and cut off wheel 

• M4 x 6mmL heatset insert

• M4 x 10+mm screw

• 3 M3x8mm screws (to screw the glue jig to the sanding jig)

• Calipers

• Adhesive ( JB Weld or 2 part epoxy....... or CA glue if impatient lol) 

• (update) 4-4.1mm drill bit

1)You will need to cut a piece of 1mm thick copper to roughly appropriate dimension to the factory design, I've made a template to trace onto the copper.

---(Copper can be found here https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BRD3SMXF?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1 )

2) You will need to shave down the P1S heatsink, so that its overall length will accommodate the 1mm copper. The printable jig is sized in such a way, that you just sand the heatsink in the jig until its flush with the bottom of the jig (theres an example photo)

--> the tension screw hole is sized for an M4x6mmL heatset insert

(I used this cheap P1S hotend https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DQB314TZ?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1 ) 

3) Glue the copper to the heatsink.

--> the glue jig has a pocket in it for aligning the copper to the heatsink during gluing, this design is not perfect, and things are subject to get stuck if you are messy. 

-->The glue jig is affixed with the 3 M3x8's, this is to keep pressure while whichever adhesive you use dries ( i used CA glue, JB weld or 2 part epoxy will be more robust) 

3b) while the glue is drying, theres a pilot hole in the glue jig, this is for drilling the filament path hole in the correct location (ish). you can use this to start the hole, and finish drilling once removed, or send it on through. ymmv

Update (1-19-26):

Step 4) Found that we should be adding a slight couterbore to the rear side of the mounting holes to fit onto the u1 printhead. 
--> for this, Use a 4-4.1mm Drill and drill ~1.5-1.6mm deep on the backside, break the edge of the hole with a countersinking bit (see last photo added) 

•   Also, I have used this process to Mod a Microswiss Flowtech hotend for the X1C successfully, it  did require soldering the stock hotend heater/thermistor wires to the MS hotend. pictures also added

• The MS X1C hotend only needed ~0.1mm of material removed from the top of the heatsink to match the stock hotend length with the addition of the 1mm copper plate. This route was less invasive than the clone p1s hotend as far as needing to remove less heatsink material. 

• hotend used --> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DWG2W7GX?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

Edit: added proof of life prints, purple->P1S hotend