Ploopy Classic BTU V1.5

Fair warning. I've used TinkerCAD because I lack proficiency in other, better/professional solutions.

After purchasing the Ploopy Classic Trackball, I immediately downloaded and printed the BTU mod as well as adding a steel trackball for the inertia/weight. The alternate buttons I found to be problematic, where I could press them down and they would not register a button press because they deformed too much. When the Classic 2 was released, I immediately recognized the improvements made to the alternate buttons and wanted them for the Classic 1. 

After downloading and comparing the top shells of both the Classic 1 and Classic 2, I also found that there was a slight widening of the stance of the bearings, which would also improve stability--a minor gripe I had with the Classic 1's trackball seating. The result was mashing the two together and maintaining the original position of the Classic 1's trackball and fastening screws, while integrating the slight changes in shape of the Classic 2. 

I recommend purchasing only the Rexroth BTU, and if you're going to use a steel ball, I recommend a G100 grade or lower (preferably lower--the smaller the number, the smaller the tolerances). Anything larger, like a G200 or G300 will absolutely impact mouse cursor precision. Here is one option on Amazon--If you go with something else, I would avoid anything from China, and anything that is a soft metal, as the BTUs might cause small creases in cheap/soft metal. Chromium Steel is very hard, is rust resistant, and is a good option. However, because it is so shiny, you may need to take a green scrubby pad to it and slightly scuff the finish so that it tracks appropriately. 

Print Recommendations

• Organic or rectolinear grid for the top shell, 35-40% incline, support on build plate only

  • Make sure to add support blockers for the screw holes on the Top shell

  • You can add support blockers for the anti-slip pad cutouts if you don't want the hassle of removing them later. 

• Bottom shell may be printed without supports. You may need to have a 5mm brim for the bottom shell with integrated wedge if your prints like to warp.

• Organic for the main and secondary buttons, support on build plate only. 

  • Be sure that bridging perimeters are set to 7-8 to ensure that the small buttons have a strong bridge

  • The small button on the main button STL will need to have a support blocker or else it will be impossible to remove a portion of the supports.

  • The small button on the main button STL will also likely need painted on supports on the outside overhang to help it stick better while the rest of the object prints.

• Usually do 25% infil, Gyroid, 3 perimeters

Attention: The top shell mayyyyy be compatible with the Classic 2, but I don't actually have one to physically test (do at your own risk and filament). Pick either the flat or integrated wedge bottom shell. The Top shell is NOT compatible with the vanilla Classic 1's bottom shell.