Under-cabinet Cutting Board Mount - Free up some counter space!

I have extremely limited counterspace in my kitchen and I wanted to make the most of it, but we use our cutting boards every day and I didn't want them tucked away in a cabinet somewhere.

These simple brackets allow you to hide them underneath cabinets - it just so happened that my cutting boards fit neatly underneath my cabinets without sticking out too far to be in the way.

Flip the model so the screw holes are touching the build plate. I made 3.9mm holes which should accommodate most screws. Make sure you check your screws don't punch through your cabinet bottoms and into your cabinet!!

These will need a little bit of support to print. I recommend the following print settings, remembering you won't really be able to see these so quality is not super important.

These will hold cutting boards up to 19.5mm thick and obviously any width or depth depending on where you place the brackets.

Building off the standard 0.2mm profile of your favorite slicer:

• Wall Loops - I turned this up from 2 to 5, I believe this is the single most important setting for strong prints. Way more important than infill

• Sparse Infill Density - 15% (any more is wasting plastic in my opinion)

• Sparse Infill Pattern - Gyroid, for best strength in all directions

• Supports - Enabled. You must have supports for this to print right, I recommend tree supports and manually painting them on to take advantage of bridging while saving plastic waste.

Supports really only need to be at the front and back of the print - Here's the painting I used to cut down to only 1.3g of support material. I have attached a 3mf with the supports already painted, it was prepared in Anycubic Slicer Next but I believe it will work with any Orca Slicer derivative.

Otherwise, the yellow in the screenshot is roughly where I painted my supports to save a bit of plastic.

You can print it with full supports enabled and it will work fine too.

Installation

Installing these is pretty self explanatory, but took a bit of trial and error. Here's how I wish I'd done it to start:

1. I recommend giving yourself a little bit of clearance and not screwing these in exactly the width of your cutting board.

2. Working upside down is tricky, you may need to enlist a friend. I did it myself with the help of some double-stick tape and only a little bit of blood drawn (stabbed myself in the finger with a screwdriver).

3. I put a piece of double-stick tape on the bottom of the bracket, stuck it under my cabinet where i wanted, tested it with my cutting board to confirm the position, then pre-drilled the pilot hole for the center screw only. Then I took the bracket off, removed the tape, inserted the screw, and used my screwdriver to hold the screw in place while i pushed the bracket up to the underside of the cabinet and lined the screw up with my pre-drilled hole. I tightened that screw down pretty much as far as i could, then moved onto the next bracket.

4. Once I had all 4 brackets up I was able to test that the alignment was right and the cutting-board slid in and out nicely and sat how I wanted. then I returned to each bracket, and drilled the remaining pilot holes, and affixed the screws to lock everything in.