Radxa Cubie A7A M.2 HAT case

This build is tricky the same as the original one was. I only realized that as i sat down to make all things fit:
at times the pockets for the M3 nuts are a wee tight and some carefully measured force is to be applied. Sometimes they turn out loose - tune those settings i guess :-P

The models are to be placed as follows:

1. The middle (green) section is to be put so the square standoffs are toward the heated bed - so the prismatic ones can be printed without supports. Enable supports only for the letter openings so the overhands are tighter and less ugly.
2. The Covers (green) are to be printed with the inner side toward the heated bed. No supports whatsoever are needed.

The precious Cubie A7A is to be drilled out for M3 screws! To do just that i used a hand drill: carefully lean the drill tip to the hole and run a dozen turns in reverse - so the drill will crush the edge and form a cone perfectly aligned to the drill's tip - aligning it perfectly with the hole. Switch the drilling direction and with least pressure let the drill jump thru it - not for the faint of heart - ideally best performed with a hand cranked drill too.

Other than that, i printed mine in ABS, 0.25 layer height - on a custom printer much resembling the recent Prusa i3 Mk3.5/3.9.

Further i had to file the power button (on the bottom of the center body) so it reaches the power switch before it hits the PCB edge - proceed with care.

All screws are M3, the standoffs should be ~ 7.5 mm with long male threads (6-8 mm ideally) that thread into the plastic of the case.

If no HAT is present, like my current situation, the standoffs should be 9 mm high.

The case openings are intentionally left a bit on the bigger side to allow for passive airflow.

Hope you like it and have fun making and using it.