Spyder Paintball Autotrigger Pump Conversion

Printed parts to build a modern SPump including custom gripframes and Autotrigger mod.

Your Marker needs to have a common threaded Low Pressure Chamber/Front Plug to fit the Pump Guide.

Tested with the following Markers (Help me expand this list):

• Umarex Razor-1/ Protoyz Speedster

The Integrated ASA Grips use a cheap Remote Line adapter as an On/Off ASA.

Required Hardware and Tools

For the Pump Conversion:

• M5 Threaded Rod

• Tube or Sleeving that fits the threaded rod (8mm OD max.) - cosmetic only

• 8mm OD Shaft or Tube for the Pump Guide

• Original O-Ring from your LPC (PTFE Tape also helps)

• M5 Hex Bolt (10-40mm Length, might be limited by your spring Guide)
  OR M8x10 Hex Bolt (Shorten any Bolt with an angle grinder)

• A good metal Hacksaw
  (you can also get creative with the Pump Arm if you don't want to Halfblock your Body)

• A Spring for the Pump Return (Optional, but feels a lot nicer)
  Either a lightweight RC-Car spring or a cut down Paintball Magazine spring will work. Ask your Magfed friend for leftovers.

For the standard Gripframe:

• 4x M3x8-10 screws

• Original Trigger, Sear, Spring and Pins

For integrated ASA Gripframe:

• 8x M3x10 screws

• Original Trigger, Sear, Spring and Pins

• This Specific style of Remote line Adapter:

• Probably new Macroline and Fittings

For the Autotrigger:

• Rigid sleeving for the Pump Rod is now required

• 6x25mm Locking Pin

• M3 Nut (Square if you have it)

• M3x5-6 Screw (Grub screw or Dome preferential)

• A decent metal file (or try your luck with a Dremel)

How To

I want to put more stuff here, but for now you'll just have to figure it out. Feel free to reach out with questions.

Pump Conversion:

• Slip the halfblock guide onto the marker body and saw away. Filing the cut surface as flat to the guide as possible is recommended

• Press or glue the 8mm Shaft into the printed LPC Plug (confirm it fits and seals before gluing)

• Mound the halfblock and pump handle and take the Threaded rod length with both in cocked position

• Sealing the Valve is not strictly necessary but will greatly improve the markers efficiency and noise

  • you can modify the existing valve pin to vent less air by adding jb weld to the flat and filing it round

  • An 11/16th cocker valved is a much easier option

  • You can also find round valve pins from various markes as spare parts that may or may not fit your valve body well enough

  • My marker uses an alias Intimidator pin (without O-ring)
    

Autotrigger:

• File a 5+mm wide, 1.5mm deep Flat into the pin, so that the trigger can trip the sear when the flat is oriented up.

• Mark your pump rod straight above the AT_Pin hole with the pumpgrip forward and all the way back; Centered between the two marks is your optimal AT_Link Pin Position

• Cut lengths of your Pump Rod Sleeving material to the specific lengths between Pumpgrip, Linkage Pin and Halfblock

• To Time the autotrigger, Set the AT_Pin angle relative to the Lever with its locking screw