Massage shower head with exchangable nozzle.

Update 3.3.2026

Added a slight angle on every second output slit to create a wider, cone shaped showerprofile.

Added two more brimtabs and did some minor fixes on the model.. 

I also took 0.15mm off the impeller width as it was unnecessarily tight.

Update: 18.2.2026

The nozzle design has been updated and should spin more reliably, if you're one of the lucky 14 that downloaded this and want to update it, then you only need to reprint the nozzle parts (if there's a problem with the impeller binding). The new design is compatible with the handle except the center valve pin, Which has also been removed (for now).

The impeller is now supported in it's center by a new part (washer) that sits under the fastening ring. No need to mix materials. It's a slightly noisier design but it spins more reliably. It appears to slow down a little after a minute or two but then it settles in to a nice and steady groove!

Let the bed cool properly before attempting to remove the washer from the bed as it's thin and deforms easily

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Print settings in short: 6 perimeters 0%infill @ 0.15mm layer height. External perimeter first and use short scarfjoints 2mm with segment length divided by 5 and "only on smooth perimeters".  Scarfjoints are important for fitment and making the seals watertight(ish).. Tested with PLA, PLA+ and PET-G

It has the same handle as my HFD showerhead which prints well without supports on an MK4S as long as the handle points into the cooling fan.

Nozzle assembly: Remove all support, inside and outside. Check that all surfaces are smooth and cut/file/sand away any defects, especially in the impeller slot. Be careful not to snap the center pin, depending on layer adhesion it can be very fragile. 

Use a 2.5mm drill to clear the hole in the impeller, it should spin freely on the drillshaft

Insert the impeller with smooth(print bed) side up and check that it spins freely.

Insert the washer, also smooth side up, align the flat part on the OD to the corresponding flat part on the nozzle body.

Screw the Ring into the slot, it can be quite tight. Use a small flathead screwdriver to screw it in incrementally while intermittently turning the nozzle 180*. If it's really difficult, check that there's not any defects in the threads, or the uppermost part of the ring. The ring should sit flush with the rest of the nozzle. Check that the impeller still spins freely, Done!

Check again that the supports in the nozzle inlet is removed and then screw the nozzle all the way into the handle, there may be a fair bit of resistance as the seal forms. Standard PLA is the most difficult while PET-G and and PLA+ is softer, it also depends on the accuracy of your printer.. If it's very stubborn you can put some soap or better yet, food oil on the nozzle seal(see PDF) before screwing it it (wash it away afterwards). The Nozzle is all the way in when it sits flush or just barely visible from the side.

Sand/file away the layer lines on the end of the shower handle thread and you're done. (not strictly necessary)

How to use: The showerhandle is in "nozzle mode" when the nozzle is screwed all the way in(CW). And in "normal shower mode" when screwed 180-360 degrees CCW if you screw it out further the nozzle thread seal will move past it's sealing point and the nozzle will eventually come loose, Do this to change the nozzle. You'll want to have a good shower curtain as it's quite "splashy" to prevent water all over your bathroom..

Happy Printing! (and showering)