Another Kuchi Kopi Night Light

Print Settings

Printer:

FLSUN i3 2017

Rafts: 

No

Supports:

No

Resolution: 

.2

Infill:

0-15%

Filament:

3D Solutech Flexible

Yellow

Notes:

The model could be printed with 0% infill, but I didn't end up trying that with the flexible filament as I was having trouble with my settings. I think it is possible with some patience and a dialed in profile. I used a simple 10% line infill which is slightly noticeable, but doesn't look bad. It is squeezable, but not super squishy.

How I Designed This ===================

I pulled the source model in Blender and tried to make some adjustments, but I think I eventually imported it into Fusion360 and traced out a simplistic offset revolved cutout to make the model hollow. This would allow a light to be placed inside, as well as using far less filament.

When powered, the LED seemed too bright. Even when I dropped the voltage as low as I could manage, it still seemed too bright for a nightlight in a dark bedroom. That meant I needed to use PWM. Luckily I had a cheap Arduino Nano clone that had been accidentally crushed in another project yet functioned. While I was writing code, I decided to use a Photoresistor to switch the light on when it got dark. I was able to play around with some values that allowed the light to become brighter when it is semi-dark, but dim much lower when all lights are out to act like a soft night light.

The base I made out of wood PLA and sanded/stained it dark ebony and finished with a thin wax layer. The Arduino Nano fits snugly in with room for wires, and allows a Mini-USB to be plugged in for power.

Arduino Code

Here's my sloppy Arduino code.

int sensor=A0; // Analog 0 plugged into LDR
int output=10; // LED Pin - Apparently for PWM, most Arduino boards (those with the ATmega168 or ATmega328), this function works on pins 3, 5, 6, 9, 10, and 11.

//Values measured from LDR under various lighting conditions in the room.

int light=300;

int dusk=180;

int dark=50;

int deadzone=50; // Tweak this value if you experience flickering.

//PWM values 0-255

int ON = 100; //255 is just too darn bright

int DIM = 25; //Aww yisss...

int OFF = 0;

void setup()

{

pinMode(output, OUTPUT);

// initialize serial:

Serial.begin(9600);

Serial.println("Light sensor reads... "); //This is for debugging/calibration

}

void loop()

{

int brightness=analogRead(sensor);

//debugging message

Serial.println(brightness);

//

////Simple Light on/off logic BOOOORING

//if (brightness <=120) {

// analogWrite(LED_BUILTIN, 255);

//}

////gap between these two values accounts for a "deadzone" to avoid flickering due to lamp turning on.

//if (brightness >=160) {

// analogWrite(LED_BUILTIN, 0);

//}

if (brightness >=light) {

analogWrite(output, OFF); //bright outside - turn light off

}

else if (brightness <= dusk-deadzone && brightness >= dark+deadzone ) {

analogWrite(output, ON); //kinda dark - turn light on full

}

else if (brightness <= dark ) {

analogWrite(output, DIM); // very dark - enable nightlight dimmage

}

//analogWrite(LED_BUILTIN, 255);

delay(500); //delay sometimes helps to avoid flicker. No need for hyperactive arduino.

}

Category: Decor