Anycubic Kobra S1 – Electronics Isolation Wall for Improved Chamber Sealing, Cooling & Odor Control

This project is a custom modification for the Anycubic Kobra S1 designed to separate the electronics compartment from the print chamber.

The main goal of this modification is to:

• Significantly improve chamber airtightness

• Ensure very effective cooling of the electronics

• Enable better odor and fume control

• Achieve a stable and controllable chamber temperature

Before this modification, the power supply, motherboard, and other electronics were cooled using air that was then pushed directly into the print chamber, escaping through every possible gap. This made it very difficult to maintain elevated and stable chamber temperatures.

After installing this isolation wall, my printer achieved a stable chamber temperature between 40–50 °C, depending on exhaust fan usage. The chamber temperature can now be actively controlled using the exhaust fan, while electronics remain properly cooled.

 Printing Material

• Recommended material: ABS (due to elevated chamber temperatures)

 Required Additional Materials

To achieve full effectiveness, foam sealing is required.

I personally used:

• 1 mm / 6 mm foam seal

• 2 mm / 10 mm foam seal

• 5 mm / 10 mm foam seal

• 2 zip ties

• M2 self-tapping screws (M2×6 mm or M2×8 mm)

• M4 or M3 self-tapping screws MAX 12MM

These seals are very cheap and extremely useful for:

• Additional sealing of the top cover

• Sealing the entire rear panel

👉 In practice, only 5 mm / 10 mm foam is sufficient, but it must be carefully cut and shaped to fit the correct locations.

Tools Required

• To cut the rear panel, I used a precision rotary tool (e.g. Dremel).

Assembly Instructions

Wall Assembly

• The wall consists of 3 separate parts

• They can be:

• Glued together using super glue

• Or plastic welded for a stronger bond

Installation Position

• Make sure the wall is inserted correctly, so that the Z-axis does NOT collide with it when moving to the lowest position

• The wall should slide into place and self-lock in its designed position

• Once positioned correctly:

• Apply foam sealing around it to achieve maximum airtightness

• Be careful not to interfere with the Z-axis movement

• Screw the wall to the printer frame withM4 or M3 self-tapping screws

Power Bed Cable Sealing

A foam seal must be added under the plastic part where the heated bed power cable exits.

⚠ There is a large gap in this area, and leaving it unsealed can significantly reduce the effectiveness of the modification.

Exhaust Outlet Recommendation

I strongly recommend using the largest exhaust outlet available:

• Allows easier airflow

• Improves controlled air extraction from the desired location

For best results, I also recommend fully sealing the rear panel, as shown in the photos. This provides the maximum possible effect.

Heated Bed Cable Management

The mounting method for the heated bed cable must be modified:

• Requires only 2 zip ties

• Must be installed exactly as shown in the photos

• Prevents:

• Cable tangling

• Excessive friction against the Z-axis screw

• Contact with the isolation wall

Exhaust Mounting Options

The exhaust can be mounted in two ways:

Option 1 – Permanent Mount (Recommended)

• Plastic weld the hooks directly to the exhaust outlet

Option 2 – Screws

• Use M2 self-tapping screws (M2×6 mm or M2×8 mm)

• Screw them in while the plastic is warm, due to limited thread grip area

Stepper Motor Opening

• The hole under the right stepper motor must be covered

• Use one of the two provided plates for sealing this opening

Final Notes

This modification dramatically improves:

• Chamber temperature stability

• Odor and fume control

• Electronics cooling efficiency

For best results, follow the sealing steps carefully and refer to the photos for correct cable routing and sealing locations.