WX - The Printable WobbleX Multi-Magnet (Remix)

Please direct your thanks to both MirageC79 and SuperThicc for their foundational work! They've chosen to include easily modifiable models to make these modifications possible. So, thank you!

Print Instructions:

No supports are necessary. I've used bridge support for the bottom magnet holes so print orientation matters in the Z direction. All of the WXs were designed to be printed with a .16mm layer height. Anything greater may reduce the layers required for the midair hole-bridging to work properly. Print with a 0.4mm nozzle or smaller. Some of the features are very small and approach 1 layer wall thicknesses. Also, you may want to generate perimeters using "arachne" and not "classic" to better accommodate the model's slim features. Make sure you've got your bed adhesion dialed in because PrusaSlicer likes to lay down small, isolated paths before adding bulkier filler on the first layer. Everyone's printers are different and will produce varying tolerances. I suggest dialing in your printer dimensional accuracy as best you can, then either adjust the "XY size compensation", "XY shrinkage compensation", scale the model, or make custom edits using model locations listed in "Slicer_Offsets" or using the included STEP files.

The text file "Slicer_Offsets" contains the size and locations of each hole/feature for you to "quickly" modify hole sizes/locations if you so desire. These locations are based from the origin that PrusaSlicer chooses for the imported model. To edit models in PrusaSlicer, right click the model and click add part, then manipulate the location by switching the coordinate system from "world coordinates" to "object coordinates". Step models are also included to modify as you see fit!

Components & Materials:

• Pins: 3mm x 10mm (diameter x length) - QTY: 8x   (Note: A slightly smaller or lager pin size may work)

  • Pin Material: Hardened Steel (preferably)   [See SuperThicc's Recommendation] 

• Ball Bearings: 4mm (diameter) - QTY: 4x

  • Ball Material: Hardened Steel (SUJ2)   [See SuperThicc's Recommendation] 

• Magnets:  {.250in, .313in, .375in, 6mm, 8mm, 10mm} Min QTY: 4x (Note: Stacking multiple, thinner magnets is an option), (Note: The .313in model can use .313in dia or 8mm dia magnets) 

  • Magnet Spec: N52+ (preferably) (Note: Verify correct magnet polarity before installing)

  • Magnet Options (diameter x height):

    • .250in x .125in - 1x (1/4" x 1/8"), 2x (1/4" x 1/16"), 4x (1/4" x 1/32")

    • 6mm x 3mm - 1x (6mm x 3mm), 1x (6mm x 2mm), 2x (6mm x 1.5mm), 3x (6mm x 1mm)

    • .313in/8mm x .188in/4.5mm - 1x (5/16" x 3/16"), 1x (5/16" x 1/8"),  2x (5/16" x 3/32"), 3x (5/16" x 1/16"),  1x (8mm x 5mm), 1x (8mm x 4mm), 1x (8mm x 3mm), 2x (8mm x 2mm), 3x (8mm x 1.5mm)

    • .375in x .188in - 1x (3/8" x 3/16"), 1x (3/8" x 1/8"),  2x (3/8" x 3/32"), 3x (3/8" x 1/16")

    • 10mm x 5mm - 1x (10mm x 5mm), 1x (10mm x 4mm), 1x (10mm x 3mm), 2x (10mm x 2mm), 3x (10mm x 1.5mm)

Assembly & Tool Recommendations: 

Tools (optional): Pliers, plastic/metal pick, right angle pick, small hammer (preferably non-ferrous), hard & flat surface (ex: a sample tile), hole deburring tool/drill bit, magnet press print.

1) Installing Pins: Start by pressing pins in by hand, then use a hard, flat surface to press them in further. If the pins are slanting away from the end of the hole, pivot the pin on the flat surface to cantilever it the opposite direction and continue pressing. Finally, use a pick or the pliers to press them in the remaining distance. Do not use any type of glue to set the pins inside the holes. It is okay if they are loose-ish since the magnet will mostly keep them in place.

Removing Pins: To remove the pins, use a straight or right angle pick from the inside of the lead screw clearance hole to push the pins out. Or if the pins are loose enough, simply use another magnet to attract the pins out of the holes. Or just destroy the model by cutting with a pair of wire cutters :'(.

2) Installing Magnets: Ensure you install the magnets in the correct polarity for each side of the print. Stack the desired number of magnets and press them as far as possible by hand (sometimes cutting a deeper chamfer can help with pressing in the magnets). Then flip the WX over and press it into a hard flat surface. Consider using a small hammer to tap the backside of the WX to further press the magnets in place. Then use the print labeled "...MagnetPress" to fully seat the magnets, either press this by hand or tap the print with a small hammer.

Removing Magnets: First remove the corresponding pins, then flip the WX with the side containing the magnet facing down. Then insert two of the pins lengthwise into the hole containing the magnet. Carefully tap the protruding pins with a small hammer then flip the part so the protruding pins contact that hard, flat surface. Press the WX down by hand and the magnets should come out easily. Or just destroy the print with wire cutters. Your choice.

3) Post Assembly: After completing the assembly, use a lint free cloth (like a polyester rag) and pick to clean both balls and rails of the WX. Then, test that the balls glide on the rails smoothly. I would refrain from adding any type of liquid lubricant since that'll attract dust and dirt.

Other Considerations:

Note: Any ferrous printer parts (like steel) that are near the magnets of the WX will cause some interference with the motion and may cause undesirable operation or print artifacts. I installed a second z-axis lead screw on my Creality CR-10 and the included steel bracket wouldn't allow for smooth movement from the WX (depending on how strong the magnets were). The aluminum bracket I replaced it with, of course, fixed that issue.